THE HERMITAGE MUSEUM -- ARTISTIC EXTRAVAGANZA
(By Subbaram Danda)
The Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, is world famous not only for its finest art collection but also for the superb buildings where it is housed – the magnificent Winter Palace of czars and its five adjuncts. With three million exhibits from all over the world and from ancient times to modern day, the museum is “one of the world’s richest repositories of art.” The Hermitage, meaning a quiet retreat, cannot be meaningfully appreciated in a single visit.
The collection had its beginnings in 1764, when Russian empress Catherine the Great purchased “a considerable number” of west European paintings for her personal possession. Highly ambitious, only a couple of years earlier she had dethroned her own husband emperor Peter III after joining hands with rebels. Talented and well-educated, Catherine had a special taste for exquisite artworks. She ruled for 34 years and with her grew the exhibits. Her successors too contributed to the cache. After the Russian Revolution of 1917, the palace, its annexes and the entire collection have become the State Hermitage Museum.
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| The facade of Winter Palace |
Fabulous palace
Today, as visitors walk towards the green-and-white three-storey Winter Palace on the banks of river Neva, its baroque architecture characterized by extravagant ornamentation, vibrant colours and bold contrasts stuns them. Constructed to serve as the winter residence of the emperors and designed to reflect the might and sweep of imperial Russia, it has 1,057 lavishly decorated halls and rooms, 1,786 doors, 1,945 windows and 117 staircases. A fire in 1837 was devastating but its restoration was fast. Though large parts of the interior were redone, the exterior has remained almost untouched.
To reach the Winter Palace, visitors normally pass through a well-paved vast open area, called Palace Square. Horse-drawn carriages saunter along offering to take the people around the museum for a charge. At the centre of the square stands a 155-foot tall column erected to commemorate the victory of czar Alexander I, Catherine’s grandson, over French emperor Napoleon. Called Alexander Column, it is described as “the tallest triumphal column in the world.” A statue at its top holds a cross. Weighing 600 tonnes, its main body is of red granite.
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| Jordan Staircase |
Dazzling staircase
Inside the Winter Palace, its main staircase itself is an amazing creation. It dazzles the visitors with elaborately gilded artworks and captivating sculptures on its side walls. Red-carpeted marble steps, shining granite columns and richly painted ceiling add to the overall ambience. In the 18th century, it was known as the Ambassadorial staircase, as it was used exclusively by foreign envoys coming for official receptions. Later it came to be called the Jordan staircase, as religious processions led by the czar used it to go down to river Neva for ceremonies reminiscent of Christ’s baptism in the Jordan river.
As visitors move from one large hall to another, one feature after another enthralls them. Walls in pastel yellow, subdued pink, muffled blue or critical scarlet carry royal portraits and legendary pictures interspersed with masonry decorations. No two flooring patterns, ceiling enrichments or door embellishments are similar. The overhanging chandeliers are of various sizes, shapes and layers. Vases of different dimensions, colours and designs can be seen at several points. Spacious rooms display renowned paintings, famous sculptures, priceless jewellery, fabulous thrones, imperial carriages, ceremonial costumes, fine china, historical arms, ancient coins and many other works of antiquity.
Golden peacock clock
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| Golden Peacock Clock |
The Russian contribution to the museum is understandably enormous. The imperial halls recreate the fabulous palace life of the czars. Each room is of a different style and period. Bewildering is the fact that the walls and ceilings of drawing rooms are elaborately gilded. The fabled thrones of the emperors are a major attraction. The bronze bust of czar Peter the Great is noteworthy. Carriages with gold-covered wooden carvings, upholstered with velvet and decorated with French paintings deserve a close look. Warrior models in shining armour on horseback are of special interest. Statues, bas reliefs, tapestries, memorabilia and military banners abound.
The west European art
The Hermitage’s west European art collection is considered one of the finest in the world. The pride of place goes to Italian works from the 13th century to the 19th, particularly those of great masters of the Renaissance – Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael and Michelangelo. People spend considerable time appreciating Leonardo’s paintings of “Madonna and Child” and “Madonna with a Flower.” The former highlights Madonna’s tender gaze at her child as she feeds it. Connoisseurs say that the painting is a “great beauty for its colour and composition.” The other painting realistically reflects the “warmth and charm of a mother’s feeling” as she holds a flower and plays with the child.
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| Raphael Loggia |
Raphael departs from the tradition in his canvas of “The Holy Family” and depicts St. Joseph without a beard. A stroll down the Raphael Loggia, a long corridor with attractive high arches named after the Italian artist, enables the visitors to see gorgeous frescoes done by him and his pupils. Elsewhere, among the many Italian sculptures are “The Crouching Boy” by Michelangelo, “The Ecstasy of St. Theresa” by Bernini and “Cupid and Psyche” by Antonio Canova.
In the Dutch section, several paintings of Rembrandt stand out. “Flora” is a portrait of Rembrandt’s wife, where he pours out his love and affection for her. In “The Return of the Prodigal Son” the painter presents a biblical scene capturing complex emotions vividly. Spanish painter Picasso’s cubist works are another major attraction.
Indian wing
The Indian wing is small. An erotic sandstone sculpture of a couple, bronzes from south India and paintings from the Mughal, Rajput and Golkonda schools are its highlights. Other oriental art is also well represented. Among the classics, Roman and Greek sculptures as well as Egyptian relics, including stone coffins, draw huge crowds. The Treasure Gallery has over 1,500 pieces of silver, gold and diamond jewellery.
More than 2.5 million people visit the Hermitage every year. For major cruise lines it is a “must-see” shore-excursion destination. It is said that if a visitor devotes just a minute to one exhibit, several years would be required to rush through them. It does not appear to be an exaggeration.
December 10, 2011 (1170 words)
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