Saturday 25 February 2012

MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 21 : ABU SIMBEL TEMPLES, EGYPT

ABU SIMBEL : AMAZING ACCOMPLISHMENT
(By Subbaram Danda)


Two large ancient Egyptian temples ingeniously carved out of solid rock inside two adjacent hillocks on the western bank of river Nile have been cynosure of world travellers for generations.  Called Abu Simbel temples, they exhibit several distinctively rare features of design and execution.   Created at the behest of celebrated pharaoh Ramses II, the main shrine is dedicated to three Gods and to the king himself.   The other abode venerates a Goddess and the pharaoh’s principal and favourite wife Nefertari.  The shrines are more than 3,250 years old. 
The pharaoh, known as Ramses the Great, is believed to have been born in 1303 BC and lived for about 90 years.    He ruled for 66 years and was buried ceremoniously in an elaborately got up vault in the Valley of the Kings near present-day Luxor.   His mummified body is now on display at the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo.  He deified himself as God and utilized every opportunity to glorify himself.   He built several temples and many colossal statues of himself throughout Egypt.  He is also reputed to have fathered more than 100 offspring from a number of wives.  Nefertari was his “Great Royal Wife.” 

Facade of Temple of Ramses II

An outstanding highlight of the twin monuments is that the primary temple, facing east, has been constructed and oriented in such a way that twice a year on February 22 and October 22 the rays of the morning sun pass through the entire depth of the temple and illuminate the sanctuary at the farthest end in a desired fashion.   The two days, 61 days after and 61 days before the Winter Solstice, when the sun is at its southern most point, are said to be the pharaoh’s birth day and coronation day.
Astounding engineering feat
In recent times a new jewel to the crown of the temples was added.  By an astounding engineering feat, they were saved from inundation by the rising waters of a high dam on the Nile at Aswan, thanks to an international campaign launched by the Egyptian government and the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization.   Under a $40 million project, the temples were relocated to a higher ground further interior in a mammoth five-year operation from 1964.   The carved structures, pillars and walls of the temples were skillfully cut into more than 1,000 segments, documented, moved and reassembled to match the original shape and size.   Artificial hills were raised around them to recreate the original splendour.
Ramses II built the twin temples for 20 years until 1244 BC to orchestrate his piety towards the Gods, overtly present himself as a God and impress his southern neighbourly countries with his capabilities.    With the fall of the ancient Egyptian empire, the temples slipped into obscurity aided by their remote location in southern Egypt.   For centuries they lay buried under sand until they were re-discovered in 1813 AD by a Swiss explorer.  The shrines were called Abu Simbel after the name of a local boy who assisted in their re-discovery. 
Fabulous facade
Today, as visitors approach the main temple, they are struck by four colossal statues of Ramses II in full regal splendour carved on the side of the hillock.   An artificial beard hanging from the chin as traditionally worn by the kings and a double crown on the head representing the pharaoh’s reign over the Upper and Lower Egypt have been prominently featured.   The 65-foot tall seated sculptures--as high as a modern six storey building--are part of an elaborately prepared façade, 125 feet wide and 100 feet high, with an entrance in the centre at the ground level.   Small figures of the members of the royal family stand between and by the side of the legs.  Above the entrance there is a figure of an aspect of Sun God Ra-Horakthy.   Over the top frame of the façade, there is a broken panel of baboons with their forelegs raised in a gesture of greeting the Sun.
The ravages of time and the fury of the elements over the centuries have had their impact on the façade.  While the first statue of Ramses II appears nearly intact, the second is without its torso.   The third has lost the top of its double crown and the last has also suffered a similar fate.  In addition, the famous artificial beard of the fourth remains knocked off.
As people step inside with a feeling of anticipation, what they first see surprises them most -- sculptures of Ramses II again.   In a spacious hall marked by an ambience of antiquity eight gigantic statues of the pharaoh in a standing posture beckon them.  They are thirty feet in height in two rows facing each other on either side of a wide aisle at the centre.  They depict the pharaoh in the style of God of Eternal Life Osiris signifying that he wields everlasting divine authority.   The statues are attached to massive square columns, which support the high-roofed hall.  The ceiling displays colourful paintings.   Further down there is another hall, smaller in size, having huge columns with painted carvings on them.   
Play of sunlight
Moving ahead and passing through a transverse chamber, visitors reach the sanctuary containing the statues of the three Gods and the king in a sitting posture on a bench-like long seat.   On the extreme left is the God of Darkness Ptah.   Then come Sun God Amun Ra, Ramses II and another aspect of Sun God Ra Horakhty.   On February 22 and October 22 bright light bathes the last three statues -- Ramses flanked by the two Sun Gods -- skipping the God of Darkness.   This image always stays in darkness!
On the walls of the halls and several chambers inside, there are numerous coloured carvings, not all in good shape, projecting the pharaoh’s victories and his devotion to deities.   One work of art depicts Ramses storming a fortress, while another shows the king shooting arrows at his enemies from a chariot.   Several hieroglyphs narrate the expeditions of the king and extol his achievements.
For Goddess of Love
About 400 feet north of the Ramses temple stands the twin shrine with a façade 90 feet in length and 40 feet in height.  It is equally awesome.  Six gigantic statues – four of Ramses II and two of his wife Nefertari – accompanied by smaller figures of their children adore the frontage.  The statues of the king and the queen are of the same height, an unusual manifestation to proclaim the high esteem Ramses had for his principal wife.  Though the temple is devoted primarily to Goddess of Love, Beauty and Motherhood Hathor, it glorifies the queen in no small measure and is popularly known as the Nefertari temple.   This has been amply made clear in the carvings on the buttresses of the façade, which speak of the pharaoh building the temple -- “a great and mighty monument” -- in honour of his royal wife Nefertari.   
An entrance at the centre leads to a square hall, supported by six ornate pillars bearing the head of Goddess Hathor.  Further inside, a transverse hall opens to the sanctuary, where a niche in the rear wall presents a statue of the Goddess in the form of a cow protecting the pharaoh.  The temple displays many carvings and paintings depicting the king and the queen making offerings to different Gods and receiving their blessings.   The temple abounds in scenes, where Nefertari is seen expressing her devotion to deities and discharging her royal duties.
With a “world heritage site” tag from UNESCO, the twin shrines shine as “the greatest and most beautiful of the temples commissioned by Ramses II.”   Millions of visitors from all over the world visit them every year and go back with long-lasting memories. 
February 25, 2012 (1300 words)
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