Saturday 30 May 2015

THE JODHPUR POTPOURRI



A TOURIST'S MISCELLANY
(By Subbaram Danda)


The front view of the memorial in Jaswant Thada

Apart from the Mehrangarh fort (the Citadel of the Sun), Jodhpur in Rajasthan has several other tourist attractions.  They may not be as great as the fort but they do have their own unique charm, as my wife and I found out during our tour of the city in March 2015.  

Jaswant Thada

One of them is Jaswant Thada, a beautifully landscaped complex housing a royal memorial and several cenotaphs.  Named after Maharaja Jaswant Singh II of the former princely state of Marwar, it was conceived and developed by his son Maharaja Sardar Singh.  

The grand complex, artistically planned with lawns, pathways and flower plants, is situated about one kilometre downhill from the Mehrangarh fort.  The all-marble memorial, completed in 1906, has a dazzling tower, ornate columns and well-designed corridors that captivate every visitor.  Often it is described as the “Taj Mahal of Marwar.”  Inside the memorial there are portraits of the successive rulers of Marwar and a complete genealogical table of the royal family.   The cenotaphs, also built in marble, are flat-roofed.  They are of Jaswant Singh, four other kings and two queens.  

Entrance to Jaswant Thada

Close-up of the memorial

Interior of the memorial

Some cenotaphs

The memorial seen from another angle

Umaid Bhawan Palace

Another place of interest for tourists is a palace sprawling over 26 acres on a high terrain built by Maharaja Umaid Singh between 1929 and 1942.  Called Umaid Bhawan Palace, it also resembles the Taj Mahal.  It is said to be the only palace to have been constructed in the 20th century.  One of its special features is that it was erected with hand-chiselled sandstone blocks put in place through an interlocking system eliminating the use of binding mortar.  The imposing central dome of the palace rising to a height of 170 feet has a whispering gallery underneath. 

The history of construction of this palace is fascinating.  It was taken up as a famine-relief project to provide jobs to many poor people.  A special railway line had to be laid for a length of 10 kms to transport sandstone to the site.  A workforce of about 3,000 toiled for 15 years to complete it. 

Unfortunately, general visitors will not be able to appreciate this “spectacular palace” fully.  A residence for the royal descendants and a luxury hotel have together taken up a large portion of the palace and so that space is out of bounds for ordinary tourists.  Worse, even a vast chunk of the garden in the front has been cordoned off.  

However, open to the public is a museum in a relatively small area that displays royal portraits, artefacts, weapons, clocks, crockery, models of aeroplanes and hunting trophies.  We completed going round this area in less than half an hour.  Within the compound, in an enclosed area away from the palace, one can see a display of vintage cars. 

The façade of the Umaid Bhawan Palace

The 170-foot high central dome of the palace

A garden in the front

The vaulted roof of an interior hall

An open courtyard

The entrance to the luxury hotel

The Mandore Garden

Further, tourists can explore Mandore, a town located eight kilometres north of Jodhpur. It was the capital of Marwar before it was shifted to Jodhpur.  Inside a vast garden in the town there are several red sandstone memorials and cenotaphs of many past rulers.  Most of them are in good condition and they stand out.  The memorials resemble temples, as the kings of those days were regarded as divine beings.  The cenotaphs look like cupolas on pillars.  From the gate one has to walk some distance to reach the point of these temples.  Monkeys provide company to the visitors!
 
Another attraction in the garden is “The Hall of Heroes.”  Sixteen gigantic figures of Hindu deities and folklore chieftains can be seen chiselled one after another horizontally on the side of a cliff.  They have been painted in bright colours or in white. 

A temple-like memorial for a Marwar king

Another memorial designed differently

A multi-tiered memorial with a cenotaph

Interior of a memorial

Sculptures on pillars and walls of a memorial

A long-shot of "The Hall of Heroes" on a cliff side

Close-up of sculptures in "The Hall of Heroes"

With a few more attractions, Jodhpur is a variegated treasure-house for history buffs and archaeologists.  Photo opportunities are, of course, aplenty.  (Ends)

May 30, 2015