HAMPI RUINS : SPEAKING STONES
(By Subbaram Danda)
The picturesque city of Hampi on the banks of the majestic-flowing Tungabhadra in the state of Karnataka, India, served as the capital of the successive rulers of the resplendent Vijayanagara empire. During the reign of Krishnadevaraya in the early 16th century, the kingdom witnessed the zenith of its glory.
Under the patronage of different rulers, magnificent temples came up, arts and literature flourished, free trade thrived and people appeared prosperous. It is an astonishing fact that on the streets of the city, merchants sold diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and other gems in heaps and huge heaps. Such a type of open trade in precious stones had never existed anywhere else in the world. Brocades, fine silks, handicrafts and other items were also in plenty for sale.
“The city is such that the eye has never seen a place like it and the ear has never heard of anything equal to it in the world,” a Persian traveller, who was in Hampi in 1443 AD, wrote in his memoirs. But the decline of the Vijayanagara empire in the middle of the 16th century and its ultimate fall to Muslim invaders followed by systematic plundering turned the city into ruins.
Fortunately today, a visitor to the 26-square-kilometre remains of Hampi can admire some temples, public buildings and a few monolithic statues that have escaped the onslaught with minimal damage. Of course, he will be appalled to pass by fully razed royal mansions, barren stone pillars of shops and other monuments in various stages of devastation. Every stone tells a touching tale.
Graceful image of Saraswati
Of significance are the temples of Virupaksha, Vittala and Hazara Rama, out of many. The first one dedicated to Lord Shiva is claimed to be one of the “oldest functioning temples of India” with a lofty 170-foot gopura (entrance tower). In the complex, there is a shrine, among several others, for Goddess of Learning Saraswati – a rarity. The graceful blackstone image of a two-armed seated Goddess playing Vina, the traditional Indian musical instrument, is in the architectural style of the earlier Chalukya kings. In another shrine one can find the idol of sage Vidyaranya, who had encouraged the establishment of the Vijayanagara empire.
Wheels of the Stone Chariot
Only one of its kind Stone Chariot
The Vittala temple in honour of Lord Vishnu is said to be “the most magnificent of the religious edifices at Hampi.” Among the many wonders it offers is a stone chariot in the front designed to serve as a shrine for Garuda, the bird mount of the presiding deity. All ornamentation normally seen on a wooden ratha (processional car) can be found beautifully etched on this stone vehicle.
An amazing feature is that the four stone wheels of the chariot rotate. Intricate floral and other motifs adorn these moving granite discs. Two elephants in the front appear to pull the chariot, but the jumbos are later additions to replace the two original horses, whose tails and hind legs can still be seen! But, alas, the superstructure of the ratha in the shape of a vimana (tower above the sanctum) no longer exists. The stone car, regarded as the only one of its kind in the world, is the most photographed monument in Hampi.
Another feature that stands out in the temple complex is a set of musical stone pillars. They have been designed to produce distinct sounds of different musical instruments when tapped in the specified style. It is disheartening to notice that the main sanctum sanctorum is empty. When and how this came about is anybody’s guess.
The Hazararama temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his aspect as Lord Rama, has been the royal place of worship. It has derived its name from the Telugu word hazaram meaning entrance-structure in view of its proximity to the king’s palace. It is known for its elegantly sculpted freezes depicting scenes from the sacred Hindu epic Ramayana in tiers running all around the main shrine and on the walls. Alas, here also the image in the sanctum is missing.
Lotus Mahal
Lotus Mahal and Elephant Stables
Among the noteworthy buildings that still stand with limited destruction are the Lotus Mahal and the Elephant Stables, which have differently-designed roof-tops. The first one, apparently used for royal consultations, is a two-storeyed structure with nine pyramidal towers, the central one being the tallest. Seen from above it appears like a blooming lotus. The second building is a long rectangular structure with eleven large domed chambers for state elephants. Each dome is of a different shape and pattern.
Several royal buildings, about which foreign travellers had raved, have been reduced to basements now. Of special interest is Mahanavami Dibba, a granite-paved platform in three diminishing tiers named after the nine-day annual festival in honour of Goddess Durga and her various aspects. Originally it had a superstructure of multi-storeyed gorgeously-decorated pavilions. It is this mansion that the king and his entourage used on ceremonial and festive occasions. He used to sit on a gem-studded golden throne and watch processions go by. Similarly, in the vicinity there is a large ornate granite base believed to be the remnants of a royal palace. The king’s Audience Hall and the Queen’s Palace, which once flourished, are also in a battered shape today.
However, the Queen’s Bath with a plain exterior and an ornate interior attracts everybody’s attention. “It is surrounded by decorated corridors and projecting balconies with remnants of elaborate stucco work.”
Mighty sculptures
Several large-sized stone sculptures of gods of the Hindu pantheon stand majestically at different points though they had been tampered with. The 22-foot monolith of Lakshminarasimha with a seven-hooded snake above the head, a 10-foot Linga (symbolic representation of Lord Shiva), whose base stands permanently in flowing water, and a couple of images of Ganesa are of interest.
While granting the World Heritage Site status to the “Hampi Group of Monuments” in 1987, UNESCO singled out the stone chariot for praise and described it as “one of the unusual creations.” It observed that “imposing monumental vestiges….make Hampi one of the most striking ruins of the world.”
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