Saturday, 26 November 2011

MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 17 : NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL, FRANCE


NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL : HISTORICAL EXUBERANCE
(By Subbaram Danda)


Notre Dame Cathedral is a catholic shrine standing in serene environs on a small island in the river Seine at the centre of Paris, France.   Meaning “Our Lady” in French, it is an “active church” dedicated to Virgin Mary containing the “cathedra,” the official chair of the Archbishop of Paris.  Its architecture is Gothic with ribbed vaults, pointed arches and towering columns.  Its chequered origins, amazing sculptures, stained-glass windows and past events have made it not only famous but also historical.   It is astonishing that as many as 13 million people visit it every year – more than 35,000 a day!  
As visitors walk towards the west-facing main entrance, they are struck by two square towers with flat tops rising to a height of 228 feet.   At the ground level three massive ornately designed portals or doorways greet them.  The central portal, largest of the three, depicts the Last Judgment.  Its panels show the resurrection of the dead, judgment, Christ and his apostles.  The left one called the Portal of the Virgin is dedicated to the patroness of the cathedral.  The remaining one is the Portal of St. Anne, Virgin Mary’s mother.

Western facade of the cathedral
Gallery of Kings

At the centre of the façade a large circular stained glass window, measuring more than 31 feet in diameter, attracts everyone’s attention.  Called rose window in Gothic architecture in view of its similarity to rose flower, it is one of three such prominent windows.  Standing in front of it is a statue of Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus flanked by two angels.   Below this rose window and above the three portals, there is a long horizontal gallery of 28 statues of biblical kings of Judah and Israel, ancestors of Mary and Jesus.  The statues in ceremonial costumes with crown and other regalia stand close to each other separated by pillars under ornate arches.   
The Notre Dame Cathedral came up on the spot where the Romans had built a temple for Jupiter centuries ago.  This was followed by a basilica and then another church.  Foundation for the present shrine was laid in 1163 AD but its progress was stunted. It was not completed until 1345 – a delay of about 180 years.   Succession of architects and changing plans have made this edifice an amalgam of styles.   Yet the basic Gothic genre stands out.
The four elevations of the cathedral – front, rear and two sides -- look distinctively different.  The main west frontage with the two flat topped square towers is the result of intense interplay of vertical and horizontal lines. The rear is in a semi-circular format, around which there is a conspicuous string of pinnacles and flying buttresses, handle-like arched exterior structures to support walls.  Though the northern and southern façades are both horizontally-oriented with a row of flying buttresses in the front and a sloping roof at the top, they look divergent in view of the position of their respective portals and their details.  A spire soars skywards from the centre of the building. 
Mystic spell
As people step inside, the cathedral’s Gothic ambiance characterized by low-light interiors, high ceiling and large enclosures transports them back to medieval times.   The spacious church can accommodate as many as 6,000 worshippers.   Huge tall pillars, stained glass windows, large wall paintings and a variety of sculptures cast a mystic spell on them.  As they move on, one feature after another unfolds before them.  The altar presents itself in magnificent settings.   The crucifix glistens in serene glory.   The semi-circular marble steps leading to it are pleasingly set. 

A major rose window

Light strains through the three major rose windows and other stained glass panels turning their colourful depictions vivid and vibrant.  The north rose window dating back to the 13th century is widely considered to be the most stunning.  It portrays Virgin Mary and Old Testament personalities.  The south rose window highlights Christ surrounded by saints and angels.  In the treasury of the cathedral many sacred relics have been preserved.  Those attributed to Jesus include the Crown of Thorns that was forced upon Christ before crucifixion and a piece of the original crucifix.   The organ of the church, reconstructed, has five keyboards and 8,000 pipes.  It is said to be the largest in France.
Notre Dame has gone through periods of destruction and restoration.  During the French Revolution it was misused as a warehouse and plundered.   Many statues were decapitated or mutilated.  For years it remained neglected.  Celebrated French Writer Victor Hugo through his famous novel “The Hunchback of Notre Dame” whipped up the sentiments of Parisians and made them realize the need for its restoration.  The consequent major renovation, led by local architect Violett-le-Duc, brought grandeur to the cathedral.   In recent years, there was a programme that began in 1991 for cleaning and preserving the sculptures and facades.  
Napoleon’s coronation
The cathedral was the venue for several celebrity events.  It was here that Napoleon Bonaparte demonstrated that the state enjoyed supremacy over the church and crowned himself the emperor.   In dramatic sequences, he took the coronation oath, collected from the altar the crown already blessed by the Pope and personally placed it on his head.   He then laid the diadem on the head of his wife Josephine.  Subsequently, official heralds proclaimed Napoleon the Emperor of the French.  On another occasion, when Paris was liberated during World War II General de Gaulle rushed to the cathedral to offer his thanksgiving prayers.   His state funeral was also conducted there.   
Among other noteworthy features are numerous sculptures of gargoyles, ferocious animal figures acting as rain water spouts, on the roof of the twin western towers and at some other points. The top can be accessed by climbing about 400 steps.  The church’s bells are very famous in Europe.   Of the five large ones, the bell on the south tower is prominent weighing as much as 13 tonnes. 
“Good luck” charm
About 100 feet in front of the main entrance visitors can see a small octagonal brass plate set in the ground.   Engraved on a surrounding circular granite slab there is a legend: “Point Zero – Des Routes de France.”   It marks the starting point for measuring all distances in Paris.  Over the years, this “Point Zero” has become a “good luck” charm.   People place their palms on the plate or spin with one foot on it making a wish.  Some couples even stand together on it and kiss seeking eternal harmony.
Regarded as the “most popular edifice of Paris” and “an ambassador of Gothic cathedrals” Notre Dame de Paris invariably finds a place in the itineraries of all visitors.  As Victor Hugo observed, “each stone of this venerable monument is a page not only in the history of the country but also in the history of knowledge and art.”
November 26, 2011 (1,150 words)
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