Saturday, 1 October 2011

MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 13 : THE COLOSSEUM, ITALY


THE COLOSSEUM : MIGHTY BUT MACABRE
(By Subbaram Danda)


The colosseum is a huge oval-shaped amphitheatre constructed by Roman emperors in the first century AD in the heart of present-day Rome, Italy.   It was intended to conduct gladiator contests, chariot races, animal fights, man-animal clashes and a host of other events that showcased the valour of the Romans and the might of their emperors.  “An iconic symbol of imperial Rome,” it is famous and also infamous at the same time.  While it reflects the intense love of the rulers for creating architectural masterpieces, it does not conceal their uninhibited lust for indulging in macabre pastimes and patronizing cruel games.
The amphitheatre was called colosseum to outwit the popularity of a nearby colossal bronze statue of Nero, an earlier emperor, whose controversial behaviour during a blaze, gave rise to the legendary slogan “Nero was fiddling, when Rome was burning.”  The statue disappeared sometime in the Middle Ages and has since been largely forgotten.  Actually, at first, the colosseum was known as the Flavian amphitheatre after the dynastic name of the Roman emperors.

The Roman colosseum today -- shorn of its old glory
(Photo courtesy: opengalleries.org)

Construction of the colosseum, measuring 1,730 feet around, began in 72 AD during the reign of emperor Vespasian and was completed after his death in 80 AD by his son and successor Titus.  It was expanded subsequently.  It is the largest-ever amphitheatre built by the Romans.
Marble cladding and statues
At that time, it was a grand elliptical four-storeyed open-air structure with tiers of seats for spectators rising from a central arena, where fights and games were held.  Sparkling marble cladding over exterior walls and numerous larger than life-size statues of Roman heroes under niche-like open arches all around in the second and third floors gave the imposing building a profound appearance.  It could accommodate 55,000 people, who could enter through as many as 80 entrances.  The top floor was meant for lower classes and women. The ground floor was reserved for senators, priests and other celebrities, and the front elevated row was for the emperor and his entourage.  
The central arena for contests, 287 feet long and 180 feet wide, was in fact a wooden floor covered with a thick layer of sand.  Underneath, there was subterranean space with a network of rooms, enclosures, tunnels, ramps and mechanical devices for gladiators and animals waiting to enter the arena.  
Near ruinous state
But the scene today is starkly different.   As enthusiastic visitors get off their vehicles and take a look at the monument straight ahead of them, it fails to stun them.  It stands in a near ruinous state, a large portion of the top two storeys having gone.  The marble covering over the exterior has totally disappeared.  Only pockmark-like holes on the walls meant for nails and clamps, which once held the overlaid marble slabs, remain.   The statues under the arches have all vanished.  The story is not different inside.  The passages, stairways and tiered rows of seats appear in various stages of dilapidation.  The wooden floor of the arena is missing and the decayed subterranean structures stand exposed.  Earthquakes, fires, robbers and misuse of the premises have all led to this state of affairs.  It is said that stones and marble slabs plundered from here were used in building mansions and cathedrals in later days. 

Interior of the colosseum -- in various stages of delapidation
(Photo courtesy: opengalleries.org) 

However, discernible eyes can visualize its serene grandeur.  Trying to recreate the bygone era for visitors today, a few well-built men sporting the costumes of famous gladiators move around in front of the colosseum.  Their red and brown tunic with golden braids, a plume-bedecked headgear, wrist bands, strappy sandals and a gleaming sword attract everybody’s attention.  For a few Euros they put up a short mock show and one can also pose for a photograph with them. 
Guides narrate the great stories of the past with a touch of élan mingled with a tinge of sorrow. The “festivities” at the colosseum would go on for a full day and sometimes for several days at a stretch, totally “enjoyed” by the citizens.  There would be comic skits, classical dramas and re-enactment of famous battles, besides human duels and fights with tigers, lions, elephants, exotic breeds and even giraffes.  
Gladiator fights
The event most sought after is the gladiator contests.   The combatants are skilled fighters, having been earlier picked from volunteers, prisoners of war, condemned criminals and slaves and rigorously trained.  Theirs would be mostly “fight to finish” clashes with each other or with beasts.  They enter the arena as trumpets blare, drums beat and the excited onlookers applaud.  They march in a procession led by trainers, musicians, dancers and a retinue of others.  Walking past the emperor they shout, “We, who are about to die, salute you.” 
As the swords and shields of the gladiators clash in loud clangs and their screams pierce the air at every grisly strike, cheers from the game-hungry spectators rise to a crescendo.  When one falls, gasping for the last breath, a thunder of ovation bursts from them.  In animal-to-animal and man-to-beast fights, the onlookers look for thrills from fierce attacks and relish the cries of agony from the wounded and the dying. 
It is no exaggeration that in these battles, a large number of men and animals would be savagely killed.   Even as “Ferrymen of the Underworld” carry the dead away, readily-kept sand would be poured over the blood-spilled ground, and another set of fighters would get ready for the next clash.  There were occasions when the amphitheatre was the scene of gruesome public executions as well “as inspired by mythology – eaten by beasts or burned to death.”  At the end, the winners would receive golden palm leaves and lots of money.   If a captive fighter turns victorious, he could implore before the emperor to be set free.   A triumphant gladiator would be held in great esteem. 
100-day ostentatious ceremony
It is said that when the colosseum was inaugurated, emperor Titus ensured that it was a “highly ostentatious opening ceremony” that went on for as many as 100 days!  During this grandiose celebration, thousands of animals, more than 5,000 according to one historian, were killed.  And there is no clear count of the men lost.
After the sixth century, with the decline of the Roman empire, colosseum fell into disuse and it became the venue for hospitals, hermitages and even a cemetery.   Today it is a highly popular site for painters and tourists.  No doubt, it is a mighty monument though with a macabre history.
October 1, 2011 (1,100 words)
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