RED FORT OF DELHI : GLORY LOST AND REGAINED
(By Subbaram Danda)
The Red Fort of Delhi, India, is a magnificent citadel-cum-palace complex on the west bank of the Yamuna built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century, when he shifted his capital from Agra. Its elegance stems, according to UNESCO, from “Mughal creativity” and the Persian, European and Indian architectural traditions. It derives its name from the red sandstone used for walls, gates and some structures inside.
In the complex ornate pillar-supported halls, deftly developed marble palaces, water channels flowing through several pavilions, elaborately decorated baths, tastefully laid gardens and a private mosque reflect the regal splendour of the Mughal monarchs. The mansions of red stone and white marble, set against green lawns, blue sky and colourful flower beds, present a mesmerizing scenario.
Red Fort of Delhi
Visual treat
One of the most striking buildings in the complex is Diwan-i-Am, Red Fort’s Hall of Public Audience, where Mughal emperors held court. Its sandstone columns in rows supporting graceful arches are a visual treat. An imposing feature of the hall is the richly embellished marble throne-platform, where the emperor sat in state, with a canopy above displaying dainty decorations. Behind this platform are a series of panels with floral and avian designs in pietra dura (mosaic-like artwork created by inlaying multi-coloured precious stones in white marble). Noteworthy is a panel depicting lute-playing Orpheus, the legendary Greek musician capable of charming even beasts and stones. In the courtyard in the front common people congregated, while the nobility filled the main hall.
The outstanding edifice in the fort is Diwan-i-Khas, the Hall of Private Audience, where the emperor used to have consultations with his ministers, officials and dignitaries. It is a pavilion of glistening white marble with intricately etched pillars and attractively designed arches. It had a ceiling of silver. Shah Jahan was so overwhelmed with joy by the beauty of the hall that he got inscribed on it in letters of gold the verse of the famous Urdu poet Amir Khusro -- “If there is a Paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.”
Peacock throne
It is in this bewitching building that the famous Peacock Throne once stood. Built for Shah Jahan in the 17th century, it was reportedly “one of the most glittering thrones ever made.” With silver steps for the monarch to ascend, it rested on golden feet set with gems. At the back were figures of two peacocks with their tails spread out. They were gilded, enamelled and inlaid with sapphires, emeralds, rubies and pearls. Among the precious stones decorating the throne was reportedly the reputed 186-carat Kohinoor diamond!
After Shah Jahan’s son Aurangzeb usurped the state from his own father, he and his successive rulers came into possession of the throne. In 1739 Persian monarch Nadir Shah overran the Mughal empire, defeating the then king Muhammed Shah, looted Delhi and took the Peacock Throne and other treasures to Persia. Later he went on a campaign against Kurdish tribesmen and was assassinated. In the ensuing chaos the fabled throne was stripped and plundered.
Diwan-i-Am: Rows of sandstone columns
supporting ornate arches (Photo courtesy: weforanimals.com)
The next mansion of interest in the Red Fort is Rang Mahal (Palace of Colours), whose interiors were originally in rich hues. It consists of a main hall and vaulted chambers. This was probably the sitting room of the royal ladies. A highlight here is a wide marble basin at the centre of the floor, whose bottom displayed floral motifs. A channel of water called Nahr-i-Bihist (Canal of Paradise) ran through the basin and made its way to other pavilions.
Vapour baths and scented showers
Royal Hammams (baths) have occupied a place of pride in the Red Fort complex. Consisting mainly of three apartments, they are known for their marble floors embellished with pietra dura artwork. They had facilities for hot vapour baths and scented showers.
The Khas Mahal is the exclusive palace of the emperor, divided into three sections – the sitting apartment, the “dream chamber” (ostensibly for sleeping) and the prayer room – with lavish walls and painted ceilings. Attached to the Khas Mahal is an octagonal tower, where the emperor used to stand and present himself to his people on the ground below. Besides, he and his princes used to watch from there elephant fights and such other events.
Near the Hammams is Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) built by Aurangzeb for his own and royal inmates’ use. The prayer hall is surmounted by three bulbous domes, originally copper plated. The over-ornate style of the mosque has received some critical comments.
Though the decline and fall of the Mughals led to neglect and decadence of the Red Fort’s structures and though the later British rulers used it for military purposes, its glory came to the fore once again in full force in independent India. Elaborate and extensive restoration and renovation work has brought back its old eminence. A national monument, Red Fort is now a major tourist attraction for laymen as well as celebrities. Together with an adjoining old citadel the fort received UNESCO’s World Heritage Site status in 2007.
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