MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 01
(By Subbaram Danda)
I am pleased to launch a new series titled “Marvels of the World.” Besides the well-known Seven Wonders of the World, there are numerous other sites and structures, natural and man-made, which evoke truly great awe and admiration in us. But invariably, they do not receive as much patronage or attention as they rightly deserve. It is my intention here to sing their praise. Please lend me your ears! The first entry follows.
KHAJURAHO : EMOTIONS RE-CREATED IN STONE
Thousands of enthusiastic visitors from all over the world visit 22 temples in Khajuraho, a quaint hamlet in the state of Madhya Pradesh in India, throughout the year for the splendour of their sculptures. Those creations in stone celebrate human life and emotions in all their myriad glory. There is no other place on this planet, where the strengths and frailties of man and woman find such a vivid and exuberant expression. Part of it is exotic erotica, which occupies a place of pride in the scheme of architectural magnificence there.
The name Khajuraho is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘kharjur’ meaning date palms, which abound in the area. The temples were constructed by kings of the Chandela dynasty during 950-1050 AD, when their reign was at its exaltation. Out of the 85 temples built, only 22 have survived to date. They are dedicated to gods of the Hindu pantheon and the Jain faith.
Nowhere else can one see so many temples spread out in one area, each exhibiting its own individuality and grandeur. The temples are in three groups not far away from each other, and in each cluster one temple stays at a stone’s throw from another. Well laid-out roads and pleasing landscaping make movement among them a pleasant experience.
Lakshmana temple
Mistress of the Moon
The origin of the Chandela dynasty is steeped in mystery and legend. A young widow of ravishing beauty was bathing in a pond on a full moon night and her charms attracted the God of Moon. He descended to earth and seduced her. He consoled the angry woman by granting her a boon. Accordingly, a son of great valour was born to her, who was named Chandravarman after the Moon God. In course of time, he became a king and supposedly established the Chandela dynasty. As per the wish of his mother, he started construction of temples.
These temples are an enigma to many visitors, because erotic sculptures are vividly visible here. Why are they present in a place of worship, where a person goes to acquire purity of thought and peace of mind? It is explained that ancient Indian treatises on temple architecture do permit depiction of sex in shrines for purposes of “ornamentation, prosperity and protection (from evil spirits)” of the shrines. Several other theories have also been propounded but most of them lack conviction.
Sculptures on the exterior of a temple
Unabashed boldness
What has indeed perplexed researchers of Khajuraho’s erotica is its unparalleled variety, enormous diversity, uncanny candidness, unabashed boldness and stunning size. And interestingly, only ten per cent of the total sculptures fall under this category!
A British author has described the amorous sculptures as representing "the apogee of erotic art" in India. He says: “Broad-hipped and high breasted nymphs display their generously contoured and bejewelled bodies on exquisitely worked exterior wall panels.”
Besides the motifs usually found in temples of the medieval period like carvings of dancers, singers, warriors, commoners, animals and trees, there are some rare sensuous figures at Khajuraho, which cast a magic spell on the visitors. There is a statue of a nymph undressing to remove a scorpion from her body. One sculpture depicts a damsel plucking a thorn from her foot. We can see a maiden applying make-up to her face, while another enjoys watching her own face reflected in a mirror.
Enchanting trance
The Lakshmana and the Kandariya Mahadev temples in the western cluster, where exquisite sculptures are on display, should not be missed. On the walls, pillars, brackets, projections, recesses, bands and at every conceivable place there are carvings. In the latter temple, one expert has counted no less than 226 statues inside the shrine and 646 outside. A large number of them are of the size of two-and-a half feet to three feet in height.
As one stands in front of any temple at Khajuraho, one gets the feeling of being transported back in time by a millennium. One virtually devours the romantic sights and lifestyles of the people of a bygone era. It is an enchanting trance, which no one would like to break! My own experience years ago was not very different. No wonder, UNESCO has accorded to Khajuraho the status of a World Heritage Site.
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A British author has described the amorous sculptures as representing "the apogee of erotic art" in India. He says: “Broad-hipped and high breasted nymphs display their generously contoured and bejewelled bodies on exquisitely worked exterior wall panels.”
Besides the motifs usually found in temples of the medieval period like carvings of dancers, singers, warriors, commoners, animals and trees, there are some rare sensuous figures at Khajuraho, which cast a magic spell on the visitors. There is a statue of a nymph undressing to remove a scorpion from her body. One sculpture depicts a damsel plucking a thorn from her foot. We can see a maiden applying make-up to her face, while another enjoys watching her own face reflected in a mirror.
Enchanting trance
The Lakshmana and the Kandariya Mahadev temples in the western cluster, where exquisite sculptures are on display, should not be missed. On the walls, pillars, brackets, projections, recesses, bands and at every conceivable place there are carvings. In the latter temple, one expert has counted no less than 226 statues inside the shrine and 646 outside. A large number of them are of the size of two-and-a half feet to three feet in height.
As one stands in front of any temple at Khajuraho, one gets the feeling of being transported back in time by a millennium. One virtually devours the romantic sights and lifestyles of the people of a bygone era. It is an enchanting trance, which no one would like to break! My own experience years ago was not very different. No wonder, UNESCO has accorded to Khajuraho the status of a World Heritage Site.
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