KHAJURAHO REVISITED

The splendour of the sculptures of the 1,000-year-old Khajuraho group of temples in Madhya Pradesh attracts a large number of tourists from all over the world right through the year. These creations in stone celebrate human life and emotions in all their myriad forms and in shocking styles.  They are unparalleled in the history of world art and architecture.  For me it was a refreshing revisit last month.  For my wife it was her first trip.

PASSIONS CREATED IN STONE

(By Subbaram Danda)

As we entered the vast temple area, we could see ahead of us neatly mowed lawns, well trimmed hedges, blooming flower plants and the towers of a few temples.  It was a delightful sight.  Originally, there were as many as 85 temples in three clusters but only 22 of them have survived the ravages of time and human intolerance. Nowhere in the world can one see so many temples grouped together at a stone’s throw from each other as in this complex.   Most of them are dedicated to the gods of the Hindu pantheon and a few to the Jain faith

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At the entrance to the Khajuraho group of temples

The name Khajuraho is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘kharjur’ meaning date palms, which are abundant in the area. The temples were built by kings of the Chandela dynasty between 950 AD and 1050 AD, when their reign was at its peak.

The origin of the Chandela dynasty is steeped in mystery.  According to a legend, a young widow of ravishing beauty was swimming in a pond on a full moon night when her charms attracted the Moon god.  He descended to earth and paired with her.  To atone for his act, he granted her a boon.  Accordingly, a son of great valour was born to her, who was named Chandravarman after the Moon god.  In course of time he became a king and established the Chandela dynasty.  As desired by his mother, he took up construction of temples.  An emblem, crafted in stone, where a warrior takes a lion head on, had been the royal symbol of the dynasty, reflecting the bravery of the Chandela kings.  This emblem can be seen at several spots in the temple complex.

The emblem of the Chandela kings

Each temple at Khajuraho has its own distinctive features.  The Kandariya Mahadev temple in the western cluster stands out as the largest and loftiest.  Dedicated to Shiva of the Hindu Trinity, the temple’s principal tower rises to a height of more than 100 feet.  It is said to resemble Kailash, the celestial abode of Shiva.  It displays sculptures of gods, goddesses, celestial nymphs, sensuous acts and animals on its walls, pillars, brackets, recesses and at every conceivable place.  One expert has counted 226 statues inside the shrine and 646 outside. A number of them are as big as two-and-a-half feet to three feet in height.

At the Kandariya Mahadev temple

One other temple that is spectacular in this sector is the Lakshmana temple, dedicated to Vishnu, another God of the Trinity.  It is not clear how this shrine has come to be known as the Lakshmana temple.  It is the earliest and the best preserved temple of the lot.  Realistically chiselled elephants at the base give the impression that they are supporting the temple.  It also has fine specimens of bracket figures.

At Lakshmana temple with group members

At the Vishwanath temple, the basement niches are carved with Saptamatrikas, Ganesha and Virabhadra.  Inside, the main hall and the passageway contain some of the loveliest sculptures, including a woman with a fruit in one hand and a parrot in the other, a mother with her child, a damsel playing the flute and amorous couples. 

At Vishwanath temple

The Varaha temple is relatively small in size.  But, it enshrines a colossal monolithic image of Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu. It is nearly nine feet long and six feet high.  An astounding feature is that all over the body of the boar 672 figurines of Hindu gods and goddesses have been etched.

At Varaha temple

Among the Jain shrines, the Parsvanath temple in the eastern sector is the most appealing. Lavishly carved statues can be found on its outer walls. Some figures like a lass writing a letter, a dancer wearing an anklet, a woman extracting a thorn from her foot and a damsel using an eye-liner are very popular.

A maiden using an eye-liner

The erotic figures, seen in almost all the temples, evoke varied reactions in the visitors. While some feel quietly embarrassed, a few turn away with suppressed giggles. What has really perplexed researchers of Khajuraho’s erotica is its unabashed boldness, unparalleled variety and startling size.  Interestingly, only ten per cent of the total sculptures fall under this category.  A British author has described the amorous sculptures as representing “the apogee of the erotic art in India.”  Why are the sensuous sculptures present in a place of worship, where a person goes to acquire purity of thought and peace of mind? It is explained that ancient treatises on temple architecture do permit them for purposes of “ornamentation, prosperity and protection from evil spirits.” There is also a view that the Chandela kings followed the Tantric cult, which encouraged gratification through sensuous pleasures for attaining liberation from earthly bonds and ultimate eternal bliss.  There are some other theories but they lack conviction.

Sculptures on the wall of a temple 

These temples also serve as a spectacular backdrop for an annual week-long dance festival organized by the Madhya Pradesh Kala Parishad towards the end of February, when the harsh winter gives way to the warm spring.  The fete has been inspired by the legendary dances of Shiva Tandava (cosmic dance) and Krishna’s Raasleela (dance with companions).  It is held in an open air auditorium within the temple complex in the evenings as the shrines glow in colourful lights.  It is a great platform for classical dancers from all over India to showcase their talents and present innovations. 

The annual dance festival in an open-air auditorium

We watched the dance programme on the evening of February 26. In fact, it was a highlight of our trip.  Our tour organizer had thoughtfully incorporated it into our itinerary.  An Art Mart, where handicrafts made by people in and around the state are exhibited and sold in colourful tents, is a popular adjunct. Marble icons, metal-ware, textiles and wooden artefacts are a big draw. 

At the Art Mart

My current visit to Khajuraho is one of rediscovery. It is heartening to note that the UNESCO-recognized world heritage monuments are being maintained with care and attention. One must see them at least once in one’s lifetime.

(The series will continue)

March 30, 2019

ORCHHA : HISTORY AND MYSTERY

At Ram Raja temple in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, a strange ritual takes place every day. The deity gets an armed salute from a policeman in uniform four times a day.  Stranger is the story of the origin of the temple. Unique mansions and memorials add more colour to this historic town.

WHERE GOD IS KING TOO

(By Subbaram Danda)

Aerial view of Ram Raja temple
(Photo courtesy: temple website)

Orchha is a quaint town in Madhya Pradesh with a population of hardly 12,000.  But it is very famous for the Ram Raja temple, which has an incredible history.  Here Ram is revered not only as God but also as a king. The sanctum is located in a palace but not in a traditional type of temple.  The deity receives all royal honours, including a salute from a rifle-armed policeman four times a day, as the doors of the sanctum open and later close – in the morning and the evening.  Unlike other temples in Orchha, Ram Raja temple gets painted in cream and light orange hues regularly in keeping with palace practices.

A policeman armed with a rifle saluting the deity
(Photo courtesy: temple website)

This unique temple has a mystical origin.  According to a legend, a queen of Orchha, being an ardent devotee of Ram, took up a challenge posed by her Krishna-worshipping husband that he would heed her request to construct a temple for Ram if she brought Ram in human form from Ayodhya. In all earnestness, she went to Ayodhya and meditated for long on the banks of the Sarayu river.  Pleased with her prayers, God Ram appeared before her and agreed to come to Orchha with her as a baby boy.  However, he laid down a few conditions. One was that the first place in Orchha where the baby would stay would be the place from where he would vanish leaving behind an idol for consecration. The second was that Ram should also be treated as the king of Orchha and all royal honours should be accorded to him as well.  The Queen agreed.

Meanwhile, the king became enlightened and started constructing a building for the Ram temple.  But when the queen returned to Orchha, the building was not ready and so the queen and the baby stayed in the royal palace.  As stated, the boy vanished from there, leaving behind an idol of Ram. Interestingly, the idol could not be shifted from there.  So the palace was converted into a place of worship.  Since then this palace-turned-temple has been a great attraction for devotees.

Ram Raja temple in the background

During our visit to Orchha, we went to the temple to witness the evening aarti.  People had thronged a very spacious quadrangle in front of the sanctum.  Our guide took us to a vantage point from where we could have a good view of the sanctum, which was then closed. We could see a policeman standing near the doors holding a rifle.

At the appointed time, as the doors opened to the holy chants of the devotees, the policeman came to attention and saluted the deity with his rifle.  The priest proceeded with the aarti ceremony and the devotees filed past in two lines with folded hands taking a look inside.

Our guide drew our attention to the fact that the idol of Ram in the sanctum is in a sitting posture with the left leg resting on the right thigh.  There are also some other idols besides those of Sita, Lakshman and Hanuman.

The unfinished temple, which was originally intended for Ram, was also completed subsequently but it retained the name of Chaturbhuj mandir, meaning a temple for the four-armed deity Vishnu in his incarnation as Ram.  However, it remained without a deity for a long time.  Today, the principal deity worshipped there is Radha Krishna.

Chaturbhuj temple (left) and Ram Raja temple (right)

Chaturbhuj temple

River Betwa, a tributary of the Jamuna, flows through Orchha.  With greenery and scenic spots all around, the town has been an ideal location for putting up mansions.  The river finds mention in epic Mahabharata and other religious texts as a venerable river.

River Betwa flows through Orchha

An outstanding building that tourists visit in Orchha is Jahangir Palace, whose main portal displays intricate artworks with turquoise tiles.  Stone sculptures of elephants on either side of the doorway greet the visitors. Interiors of the three-storey structure are marked by open courtyards, hanging balconies, creative lattices, varied porches and innumerable chambers.

The main portal of Jahangir Palace

Inside Jahangir Palace

Jahangir Palace was built in the 17th century by the Rajput Bundela ruler Bir Singh Deo to commemorate his friendship with the Mughal emperor Jahangir.  How it all happened is intriguingly interesting.  Generally, Bundela kings had been antagonistic to the aggressive designs of the Mughals. When Akbar was the emperor, his son Jahangir proved highly rebellious and belligerent.  In a clever move, Bir Singh Deo, who was only a prince at that time, befriended Jahangir and foiled a plan of Akbar to kill Jahangir. Eventually when Jahangir ascended the throne, the friendship between the two got cemented further.  He in turn helped Bir Singh to come to power with ease and consolidate his regime. 

Nearby stands another edifice -- Raja Mahal, which was the place of residence for some royal generations of Orchha.   Its exterior is simple but the interior is rich in architectural designs. The murals in some chambers are outstanding with depictions highlighting events in Hindu epics and portraying royal amusements and folklore.  Its layout is such that sunlight entering the palace causes different shades and temperatures at different points so that the inmates would remain mostly in high spirits. It has several secret passages.

Murals in the Queen's chamber of Raja Mahal

Murals in the public hall

Visitors to Orchha cannot fail to see many cenotaphs.  They were built for the kings and their kin.  Most of them look alike with a tall tower at the top in the centre and domes at four corners of the building.  They came up at spots where the royals were cremated. The architectural pattern of some other cenotaphs is somewhat different

Cenotaphs of Orchha royals

With the group travellers at Orchha cenotaphs

Orchha shines steeped in history and mystery and is certainly a town worth visiting.

(The series will continue)

March 23, 2019 

JHANSI : WITNESS TO AN ERA

Ever since I watched the movie “Manikarnika: the Queen of Jhansi,” a curious desire was growing in me that I should visit Jhansi and see for myself at first hand the famous fort there, which was the scene of a mighty battle. It was a surprise for me that the desire was fulfilled sooner than expected, when the group tour came my way. From the fort the young brave warrior queen fought a fierce battle against the British forces.  When victory eluded her, in a daring feat she escaped jumping from the top of the fort on horseback with her adopted kid tied to her back.
 

 THE TALE OF A HISTORIC FORT

(By Subbaram Danda)

In front of the historic Jhansi fort

We drove to Jhansi from Gwalior.  It was evening.  We wound our way up a hill to reach the fort.  Our excitement ran high, as the fort came into our view.  On the left we could see a rugged high wall of the fort and on the right the city spreading out all over below. Ahead was the entry gate.  We got down from our cars and our trek began. 

A park adjoining a wall of the fort

The city of Jhansi spreading out below the hill-top fort

We ambled over long ramps, moved along maze-like walkways and trudged up steep staircases.  We went past cannons, large barren rooms, cavernous closed spaces, vacant mansions, disused garrisons and some parks.  We clicked photos and selfies, even as our tour guide waxed eloquent on the citadel and the gallantry of the queen of Jhansi.   

On the top terrace of the fort

A park in the fort premises

The fort was built in the 17^th century by a ruler of the Bundela dynasty Bir Singh Deo.  Standing on a steep hillock it measures 1,000 feet in length and 750 feet in width.  With 22 bastions, massive fortification walls made of solid granite blocks of 15 to 20 inches in thickness and moats on two sides, the fort looks impregnable.  Ten gates, strategically located, provide access to the fort.  

The fortification walls

A typical bastion of the Jhansi fort

Manikarnika was the maiden name of the queen of the princely state of Jhansi.  She was popular with the people through her good deeds and earned their admiration and support.  During the Indian mutiny, also known as the First War of Independence, she led Jhansi forces and fought the British heroically.   

At another spot in the fort

With group members

In due course, when the British forces were all set to overtake the fort, Rani Jhansi figured that at any cost she should avoid being captured.  Under the cover of darkness in the night she rode over ramps to the top of the fort on her favourite horse Badal with her adopted kid tied to her back.  On the long terrace she galloped till she reached a chosen corner.  In a swift daring act she prodded the faithful and well-trained horse to jump off the parapet wall into a ravine deep down below.  She and the kid survived the steep fall but unfortunately the horse died.  With a heavy heart she managed to escape to the town of Kalpi helped by some guards, where she again fought the British forces.  Defeated there also, she eventually moved to Gwalior, where she attained martyrdom.  In the Jhansi fort, the spot from where the queen jumped off on her horse back has been a site of great tourist interest.  A board proclaims the valiant act of the young warrior. 

This is undoubtedly a unique fort that bears witness to acts of valour of a different kind..

(The series will continue)

March 16, 2019

GWALIOR : GEMS OF HERITAGE

For heritage lovers, Madhya Pradesh offers a wide variety of attractions.  I felt delighted when I learnt about a package tour prepared by the 50Plus Voyagers Club, a tour facilitator specializing in quenching the travel thirst of those who have crossed the 50-year mark in their lives. I opted for it. The bouquet included visits to Gwalior, Jhansi, Orchha, Khajuraho and Jabalpur from February 24 to March 1, 2019.

GWALIOR : FORT, TEMPLES AND PALACES

(By Subbaram Danda)

At Gwalior, the cynosure of all eyes is an imposing hill-top fort, more than 1,000 years old. The frontage showcases blue and yellow glazed tiles affixed creatively for enhanced appearance, which is a rarity.  It prides itself on being a grand citadel with Hindu architectural features and motifs. Interestingly, Mughal emperor Babur described the fort as “a pearl amongst the fortresses of the Hind.” 

The imposing Gwalior fort 

The fort has witnessed many ups and downs in its long history. In the last five centuries alone, it changed hands from the rulers of the Tomar dynasty to Mughals, then the Marathas, the British and finally the Scindias.   It has been the scene of momentous battles, imprisonments and jauhars (mass deaths of royal women by immolation).

Within the fort, there are six palaces and three temples. Out of them, the most outstanding is a 500-year old palace named after Tomar king Raja Man Singh.  Its plinths, pillars and doorways are ornately sculpted.  It has two open courtyards, where music and dance performances were held, watched by royal ladies from balconies above.  Unfortunately today most of the palace rooms stand bare, stripped of their past elegance. Strangely, during the time of the Mughals two basement floors of the palace were used as a prison.  It was in this prison that emperor Aurangzeb had jailed his brother Murad.

Man Singh Palace: In a courtyard with intricately carved doorways

Among the temples within the fort complex the most visited is the Sahasrabahu temple dedicated to Hindu God Vishnu. Sahasrabahu or Sahastrabahu means thousand arms and it refers to Vishnu.  It was constructed by a Gwalior king at the request of his queen, who was a Vishnu devotee.  He also heeded the plea of his daughter-in-law, who was a Shiva devotee, and built a Shiva temple nearby.  In course of time, the twin temples together came to be known as Saas-bahu temples.  Saas-bahu denotes mother-in-law and daughter-in-law.  In these temples, elaborately chiselled pillars and walls are strikingly beautiful.  Unfortunately, there are no idols inside them now.

Saas-bahu temple dedicated to Vishnu 

Saas-bahu temple dedicated to Shiva

Another temple of importance within the fort area is Teli ka mandir, whose main tower soars to a height of over 100 feet.  Dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Matrikas, it is believed to have been built in the ninth century by an oil (teli) merchant.  While its decorative embellishments exhibit typical Indo-Aryan characteristics, the shape of the roof is Dravidian.  It suffered extensive destruction in later years but was subsequently restored.  The porch, doorway and the exterior walls display extensive carvings. 

Teli ka Mandir 

A miss-not attraction in Gwalior is Jai Vilas Palace, located in the heart of the city.  Built in 1874 by Scindia king Jayaji Rao, it incorporates European style of architecture. A part of the palace has been converted into a museum, while the rest remains the residence of the descendants of the former royal Maratha Scindia dynasty.

In front of the Jai Vilas Palace and Museum

The most popular attraction in the palace is the Durbar hall, which showcases gold-plated furniture, Persian carpets, expensive draperies and two huge crystal chandeliers.  Each chandelier is said to weigh 3.5 tons and to make sure that the roof could hold them, eight elephants were made to walk on it.  The hall is 100 feet long, 50 feet wide and 40 feet high. 

The Durbar Hall with two heavy chandeliers

Novelty is the hallmark of several attractions in the palace.  Visitors are awestruck by a large pillared banquet hall in pure white ambience, where a miniature silver train with cut-glass wagons would run on rails laid over an elongated dining table.  It served wine, nuts and cigars to guests as it chugged on the table.  

There is another private dining hall, where mostly family members and relatives had their meals seated on the floor. A noteworthy feature here is that all plates, tumblers and cutlery were made of pure silver. 

The Banquet Hall with a miniature silver train

The family dining hall

A significant highlight is a swimming pool exclusively for the royal ladies built inside the palace with a roof over it. It has a diving board too. Other pieces of interest displayed in the museum include an original shield of Jhansi ki Rani, swords dating back to the times of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb, a silver coach, royal palanquins, a table with a picture of Napoleon, sculptures, paintings and many personal memorabilia of the members of the Scindia family.

(The series will continue)

March 10, 2019