KUFRI : A COOL DESTINATION

KUFRI, a hill station located at about 20 kilometres from Shimla, has emerged as the modern-day upscale summer retreat of north India.  This is the result of crass commercialization and exploding population of Shimla taking a toll on its infrastructure.  In fact, many tourists stay in Kufri and travel to Shimla for sight-seeing.

Hill station Kufri lies perched on Himalayan range of mountains

FOR A RELAXING HOLIDAY

(By Subbaram Danda)

The road from Shimla rises steeply and gains staggering 1,400 feet in altitude by the time Kufri is reached.  Its elevation at 8,630 feet above the sea level enables one to see the Himalayan range of mountains in their natural splendour.  Several holiday resorts and entertainment joints have come up in Kufri to serve a discerning clientele.  Already it has a very popular zoo that showcases rare Himalayan animals and birds.   

Sterling Resort

We stayed at Sterling Kufri that nestled on a hillock offering panoramic views of the verdant valleys and gleaming peaks around.  Its rooms were spacious with all modern facilities.  In the mornings through a large window in our room we could watch the sun rise over distant mountains and glow in a flush of fiery orange light – a rare and awesome sight.  Though the night temperature touched 10 degrees C, we did not feel the chill, as the room was centrally heated.  It proved an ideal place to relax. 

Interestingly, we did not have to pay anything for our stay, as a couple of decades ago we had purchased some holiday units in Sterling that entitle us to stay in its resorts for certain days a year.   We had only to pay nominal utility charges.  In the restaurant too we were eligible for a 20% discount besides a 5% concession for senior citizens.  We were pleasantly surprised to find that south Indian dishes like idly, dosa, vada, uppuma and kitchadi were available in the restaurant together with two types of chutneys and sambar.  In fact, chefs prepared dosas in our full view in a corner of the restaurant.  Interestingly, they were much sought after by north Indian guests.

Frontage of Sterling Resort at Kufri

Our room in the resort

Sunrise as seen through a window in our room

Hills and valleys could be seen from our room

The valley behind the resort

In the restaurant of the resort

Breakfast in the restaurant

Chefs making dosas

In the Reception area

At the resort's parking lot

Various blocks of the resort

Adventure Resorts Theme Park

Touted as the “best hill adventure venue,” the park attracts the young and the old alike.  We went there around 10:00 a.m.  Its attractions included Sky Swinger, Bungy Trempoline,  Zipline, Go Carting and a variety of other rides.  Among the in-house fare were the House of Horrors and a 5D cinema.

We carefully avoided the rides in view of our age and settled for the film out of curiosity to know what those 5D effects were.  We were taken inside a theatre with seats of a different kind.  There were no arm rests.  We had to hold two vertical bars in the front with our two hands, keeping our legs on a somewhat raised footrests.  Our seat belts were fastened.  We wore 3D glasses.

We heard a bell ring and the film whirred to a start.  It featured a roller-coaster ride.  When it took a steep plunge or turned at an alarmingly high speed, our seats tilted accordingly, giving the feeling that we were participating in the ride.  When it pierced through a waterfall, real water from an overhead sprinkler fell on us in a mild shower.  Occasionally a shrill hooter came alive, supplementing the sounds coming from the film.  It was a virtual roller-coaster ride.

    

Everything was over in five minutes.  It was a new experience for us.  Apart from the 3Ds with which we were familiar, the two other dimensions were seat-tilting and water sprinkling.

Later, we went round the large park, just looking around.  There were many spots providing excellent views of the Himalayan peaks in the mellow sunlight.  We felt evenings would be far more pleasant there.

At the entrance to the theme park

Sky Swinger in the background

Shopping arcade in the theme park

A cottage in the theme park

Himalayan ranges as seen from the theme park

Around the theme park

Himalayan Nature Park

The park was rich in Himalayan flora and fauna.  Stretching over 220 acres, it housed animals and birds in large enclosures.  Mammals of different types like musk deer, black bear, Tibetan wolf, leopard, and pheasant were the major attractions in the park, in addition to well-grown trees like deodar, oak and pine. 

Long paved walkways enabled visitors to go round the vast area in an orderly fashion.  Boards at intervals provided information on the animals that could be seen in the vicinity. In our exploration, we spotted a leopard at a distance hiding behind a boulder and a black bear splashing water in a tank on the ground.  After a while the bear came out of the tank and stood on its edge for a few minutes, as if posing for our cameras. From a close range we also glanced at a few Himalayan wild goats. Interestingly, we also stepped into a mini museum located in the premises.

A black bear coming out of a water tank

In the mini museum of the Himalayan Nature Park

In the hill station there were a few other joints, which offered a slightly different fare.  There youngsters enjoyed pony rides along long ridge fringes.  These places would come especially alive during the times of snowfall with several games geared to the season.

At the end of it all, we felt Kufri provided us a relaxed and tranquil holiday.  Undoubtedly, it is a unique hill-station where a man, caught in the whirlpool of present-day life, can find perceptible solace. (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn concludes)    

May 20, 2018

THE SIGHTS OF SHIMLA

Shimla is an all season hill station in north India. During the months of snowfall the town looks spectacular, while in summer its climate is salubrious. Its beauty and charm were brought home to us in south India a few decades ago by the film “Anbe Vaa,” where matinee idol M. G. Ramachandran went eloquent singing the song “Puthiya Vaanam, Puthiya Bhoomi….” traversing the most popular stretches of the town.

  

A PACK OF ATTRACTIONS

(By Subbaram Danda)

Shimla has several places of attraction for tourists.  Apart from the Hanuman temple on one of its seven hills, a widely visited site is Viceregal Lodge, which was the venue for talks between the British rulers and Indian leaders on granting independence to the subcontinent.  Its Ridge area is popular among the young and the old to hang out lazily or walk around leisurely.  Its Mall Street and adjacent bazaars are known for their brisk sales of everything, especially handicrafts and woollen wear.  

The Viceregal Lodge

The Ridge area

The Viceregal Lodge

It is an imposing Victorian-style edifice built in 1888.  Constructed entirely with stone blocks, it ranks among the British India’s monumental buildings in the country.  It was intended to be the summer residence of the Viceroy in India.  After Indian independence, it became the Rashtrapati Niwas, official summer residence of the President of India.  But this status did not last long.  In October 1965, President Radhakrishnan converted it into a prime educational institution.  The building became the functioning centre of the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, a post-doctoral research facility.   

History buffs will be interested to know that in the summer of 1945, the Viceregal Lodge was the scene of what came to be known as the Shimla Conference attended by stalwarts like Jawaharlal Nehru, Sardar Vallabhai Patel, Maulana Azad and Mohammed Ali Jinna.  There a plan was discussed for creating a "self-government" in India.  With no consensus emerging, a major opportunity was lost to have a united India.  Mahatma Gandhi had also been there four times.

A conducted tour into a section of the building revealed interesting facts.   A historical exhibit we could see was a circular table with some chairs around it.  It was here that the Shimla Agreement was signed, which led to the partition of India.  Some articles and photographs of the British rule in India were also on display.

We also learned that Henry Irwin, who designed the building, was also the designer of the Mysore Palace.  More fascinating was the fact that rainwater harvesting was put in place even in those days.  Rainwater was collected and stored in two large sumps under the lawns in front of the building.  

In the sprawling compound of  the Viceregal Lodge

The lawns and deodar trees add charm to the Viceregal Lodge

The Lodge, now Indian Institute of Advanced Studies

The Ridge Area

It is an elevated terrain, flat and vast, ringed by metallic railings.  No vehicle is allowed into it.  People can go there only by climbing any of a few fairly steep but well paved approach streets.  All around it there are impressive buildings, prominent ones being the stone-built Town Hall and the Christ Church.  Statues of national and local leaders dot the periphery.   There are also neatly tended parks. 

It was fascinating to look beyond the railings.  We could view plunging valleys and wooded hills interspersed with colourfully tiled houses.  At a distance the snow-capped peaks of the high Himalayas appeared in a hazy light.   

We were told that visitors would throng the place from early in the morning and the jostling crowds could be seen till late in the night.  In times of snow, the Ridge would come especially alive.  Entire area would shimmer in snow and people in heavy thermal clothes could be seen skiing there in gay abandon. 

The magnificent Jakhu Hanuman statue as seen from the Ridge area

The Christ Church in the area

In front of a prominent restaurant

A sculpture at the Army Training Command near the Ridge area

A statue of the Founder of Himachal, Dr. Y.S. Parmar

The Mall Street and Bazaars

If one is a shopping enthusiast, this is the place.  At a lower level to the Ridge and on its approach streets shops sell a variety of goods.  Locally-made handicrafts and woollen wear are a specialty.  Eateries, including at least one south Indian restaurant, bakeries, ice cream joints, and cool drink parlours do good business.  

There are a few other tourist sites, including a museum, a minor waterfall and a golf course.  We skipped them.  (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 17, 2018

THE DIVINE DESTINATION

While working on our tri-city itinerary, we came to know about a Hanuman temple on top of the highest of the seven hills of Shimla called Jakhu.  It is ancient and very famous in north India.  For us in the south, it is not well known.  We accorded high priority to a visit to the temple.  More fascinating is the fact that in the premises of the temple stands a gigantic statue of the Lord visible from several parts of Shimla.

THE HIGHEST, COLOSSAL AND GRAND

(By Subbaram Danda)

The Hanuman statue, 108 feet tall, overlooks majestically the hills and valleys around.  At an altitude of 8,050 feet in the Himalayan range, it is the highest of its kind in the world.  It was installed only about eight years ago.  

The origin of the temple is interesting.  According to a legend, in the epic Ramayana, Hanuman landed on the Jakhu hill on his way to the Himalayas to fetch Sanjeevani herb to cure Lakshmana wounded in the fight against Ravana in Sri Lanka.  He intended to meet a sage on the hill to know where exactly he could find the herb.  After getting the advice, he immediately resumed his journey.   Later, following some incidents, a self-evolved idol of the Lord appeared at Jakhu and the sage built a temple over it and with the footprints of Hanuman.

People have to trek about three kilometres along a steep unpaved way from a point in the Ridge area of Shimla to reach the entrance to the temple.   Small cars can go up but have to stop at some distance before the entrance.  Fortunately our taxi driver, an expert in negotiating sharp curves and bends, cleverly managed to take us to the entrance. 

A wide welcome arch greeted the devotees.   Passing under it, we had to climb a long flight of covered stairs that ran alongside a ramp.  It did not, however, prove to be arduous.   We did not keep a count of the steps though a kid in front of us was shouting numbers as he climbed up.  We did not pant or gasp despite the high altitude.  The fresh morning breeze and the green scenery around kept us in good humour.

At the entrance to the Hanuman temple

Steps leading to the temple

At the end, we were thrilled as the grand statue of Hanuman came to our view on the right side. A short distance away we could find a large raised platform approachable by climbing a few steps.  It proved to be the ideal place to stand and take a good look at the entire statue.  It was also the excellent spot to click photos or take selfies.

The gigantic statue in saffron colour shimmered in the soft morning sunlight.  It was a mesmerising sight.  Hanuman appeared in serene splendour wearing a crown-like headgear and wielding a heavy mace (gadha) in his right hand, its spherical end touching the ground.   A garland of what looked like “rudrakshas” hung gracefully from the neck.  Well-grown deodar trees formed a ring of greenery around the statue adding a touch of natural charm to the entire scene.

The majestic statue of Hanuman

Beyond, a colourful ornamental arch with a string of small bells and a large one at the centre beckoned the devotees into the sanctum.  The space in front of the sanctum, where people could stand and pray, displayed photos on walls depicting Ramayana scenes and Hindu deities.  Inside the sanctum, the self-evolved idol of Hanuman appeared elegantly decorated with ornaments and flowers.  Around the sanctum there was a corridor for devotees to go round in a parikrama.

The ornate arch before the sanctum

In the sanctum

The entire temple complex has been beautifully developed with lawns and flower plants in the style of a garden. There are several small shrines at different points.  A children’s play area is a great addition.

Outside the main temple

A shrine in the premises

Children's play area

One could not miss seeing monkeys running around the entire area in gay abandon.  We were warned in advance that we should not carry anything with us openly that could attract their attention.  They would pounce on the people, grab them in a jiffy and run away.  They would not spare even spectacles, cell phones and cameras.  There were instances, where sandals were also snatched away.

So, to be on the safe side, we left our bags and water bottles in the taxi itself.  We did not wear even our spectacles.  We concealed our cell phones in our pockets.  We pulled them out only after making sure our monkey friends were not around and only then clicked our pictures.  Thank God, we remained untouched by them!

Last year a cable car service was introduced from the centre of Shimla to take people close to the temple premises.  But, we did not take advantage of this facility, as our driver had assured us that he would take and leave us at the temple’s entrance.  He did so as promised.

The temple visit was the high point of our Shimla itinerary.  Other sights of Shimla will find a place in the next post.  (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 14, 2018

THE HIMALAYAN QUEEN

The Himalayan Queen -- it is a romantic name given to a train running on a mountain track between Kalka in Haryana and Shimla in Himachal Pradesh.  The entire route is mesmerizingly scenic.  You will remain awe-struck from the very moment the train leaves the station, chugging arduously up and up. 

The scenic route of the mountain railway

UP AND UP IN A TOY TRAIN

(By Subbaram Danda)

We travelled to Kalka from Chandigarh, a distance of 30 kilometres, by taxi to catch the Himalayan Queen heading to Shimla. It left the station at 12:10 p.m.  We chose this mode of travel for the laidback convenience that it offered.   As it picked up speed and pulled up and up, it was sheer pleasure watching hill settlements, deep valleys and distant mountains pass by.      

Also known euphemistically as the Toy Train, it trudges along languidly on a narrow gauge.  It takes as many as five and a half hours to reach its hilly destination 96 kilometres away.  The rail-line, more than 100 years old, has the World Heritage tag given by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

The Toy Train negotiates a sharp curve

It is different from other trains in several respects.  Each compartment is small with just 30 seats and not connected to others through a vestibule passage.  No wonder, it is called a Toy Train.  Therefore, food is not served in the train. Following a piece of advice from a canteen waiter at Kalka, we carried some packed snacks to see us through till we reached the destination. 

It is entirely a chair-car train with a total of seven compartments.  It is not air-conditioned.  So we could keep open the glass windows for a clear view of the scenery outside and also take photos. 

In the compartment

The rail-line was laid during the British Raj for the then rulers to come to Shimla for their summer retreat.  Its operations commenced during the days of Lord Curzon in November 1903.  It was considered the “crown jewel” of the Indian National Railway.

The track passes through 102 tunnels and over 800 bridges and viaducts.  One tunnel is more than one kilometre long.  Some bridges look like ancient Roman aqueducts with an array of multi-storeyed arches.  More than two-thirds of the track is curved, sometimes at angles as sharp as 45 degrees. 

Roman aqueduct-like bridge with multiple arches

The train’s movement was fascinating.  It began its climb upwards almost immediately after it left the Kalka station, which is at an altitude of 2,150 feet above sea level.  In just 40 kilometres from Kalka, it was moving at an altitude of 5,200 feet -- a mind-blowing climb of 3,050 feet!   Interestingly, for the passengers it was almost imperceptible.  By the time it reached Shimla it had climbed a total of 5,320 feet vertically so to speak. 

We had booked our seats on the first day when the online reservation window opened.  We were given one window seat and the next one on the right side of the compartment, said to be the best side for watching sceneries outside while heading towards Shimla.

A scenery on the way -- two parallel roads

A hill-side settlement

Whenever the train passed through a tunnel, children in a compartment before ours gave out shrill cries, enlivening the journey.  When the train passed through the one kilometre long tunnel, it was a continuous hilarious hooting.   It was an experience!

Less than half way through, we could feel chill breeze from the hillside enter the compartment and freshen up our faces.  Outside, deodar, pine, oak and maple trees in valleys swayed passionately in the winds in demure sun.  

Hills and valleys with a variety of trees

Apart from getting the UNESCO tag, the rail-line has also entered the Guinness Book of World Records for the steep gradient it continuously negotiates.

It would be better, if the Railway pays sufficient attention to maintaining the compartments spick and span.  Otherwise, the show piece status of the train would vanish into thin air. 

Though there are a few more Toy Trains, the features of the Kalka-Shimla line are outstanding.  We have travelled by a couple of such other trains also but our feeling is that the experience on this route is pleasingly different.  We were told that in winter the scenery en route would be spectacular with snow clad hills and valleys glowing in picturesque splendour.  (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 12, 2018

THE CHARMS OF CHANDIGARH

We – my wife and I – were on a tri-city sojourn in Chandigarh, Shimla and Kufri this summer between April 19 and 25, 2018.  Chandigarh is reputed to be a well-planned city.  Shimla is a world famous summer retreat.  Kufri is emerging as a tourist paradise with many modern resorts having come up. It was our first visit to these places. 

An artificial waterfall in the Rock Garden, Chandigarh

THREE GARDENS, A LAKE AND A TEMPLE

(By Subbaram Danda)

Chandigarh was the first on our itinerary.  It is located in the foothills of the Shivalik range of the Himalayas.   Meaning the “Fort of Chandi,” its name is derived from an ancient temple there called Chandi Mandir devoted to Goddess Chandi.

Administratively, it is unique.  While being a union territory, it is also the capital of two north Indian states of Punjab and Haryana.  The first planned city in post-independence India, it was designed by the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier.  His creation – a giant Open Palm– has become the city’s symbolic icon.

Rock Garden

Though the city has many tourist attractions, the most visited is the Rock Garden spread over 40 acres.  Also known as Nek Chand’s Rock Garden after its founder, it is a garden of colourful sculptures of a different kind -- made wholly of waste materials like broken pieces of porcelain, pottery, rocks, metals, auto parts, wood and bangles.  One can find figurines of dancers, musicians, boys, girls, animals and birds. 

We passed through a maze of lanes and narrow arch ways to see the exhibits.  It is a great open air display of unusual pieces of art.  An outstanding feature of the Rock Garden is an artificial waterfall made possible through diversion of water from a nearby lake.  This is the most sought-after site for photo enthusiasts. We took about a couple of hours to leisurely walk through the whole area.  It is said to clock 5,000 visitors every day.

A sculpture in front of the Rock Garden paying a tribute to its creator

The artificial waterfall in the background

Sculptures of different kinds

Peacocks

Marble pieces extensively used

A gallery of dancers

School boys in uniform

Through long-winding ways

Figurines of men and animals 

Sukhna Lake

Close to the Rock Garden lies a serene water-body called Sukhna Lake, surrounded by lush greenery.  Stretching across 3 km, the lake was formed in 1958 by damming a stream flowing from the Shivalik hills.  Water sporting activities like boating, yachting and water-skiing are prominent here.  There is a children’s play area too.  The promenade on the shores of the lake attracts a stream of joggers and walkers in the morning and evening.

Boats ready to take visitors on board

Serene environment

The palm -- the icon of Chandigarh in the lake premises

Rose Garden

About four kms from the Rock Garden is the sprawling Rose Garden, said to be the largest one of its kind in Asia dedicated to roses.  It is claimed that the garden has more than 32,500 plants, representing 825 varieties of roses.  Named after former President of India Zakir Hussain, it also houses several herbal plants. 

Unfortunately, when we visited, several plants and their flowers were in a state of withering.  However, the vast layout with neatly trimmed lawns and paved pathways was appealing.

A sign in front of the garden

Entering the garden

Withering plants and flowers

Neat benches and lawns

Camel rides outside the garden

Manasa Devi Temple

Our next visit was to a famous temple, set against a scenic backdrop, dedicated to Manasa Devi, a form of Shakti, at Panchkula in the state of Haryana near Chandigarh.  Constructed by Maharaja Gopal Singh during 1811-1815, it is currently administered by the state government.   

The sanctum is accessed by climbing a long flight of stairs.  The temple is so popular that we had to wait in a long queue to have darshan of the Goddess. Huge crowds are said to throng the temple during auspicious days, especially at the time of the Navaratri melas.   

Manasa Devi deity

Outside the sanctum

In the temple complex

Pinjore Garden

Slightly away from Chandigarh lies the 17^th century Pinjore Garden.  It is a picturesque site with a long flowing water channel, flanked by paved paths, flower beds, lawns and tall trees.  Different types of pavilions across the channel at intervals add to the grandeur of the whole place. 

Pinjore Garden was created by the foster brother of the Mughal emperor Aurangazeb to serve as a summer retreat for the king.  Far later, it was extended and reconstructed by Maharaja Yadavindra of the then State of Patiala.  At present it is a good tourist attraction.  A children’s play area with various rides outside the proper garden is a special addition.  Camel rides are well patronized.

Immediately after entering the garden

At one of the pavilions 

The long central waterway flanked by paved pathways and lawns

At another pavilion

At the children's play area

There are also some other attractions like International Dolls Museum, Cactus Garden and Art Gallery but we had to skip them for want of time.  We were happy we had covered the important ones. (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 08, 2018