RECOLLECTIONS Sweet and Sour - 07

With the demise of DMK patriarch M. Karunanidhi at the age of 94 on August 07, 2018 in Chennai, a major era in the annals of Dravidian politics has come to an end.  But what the five-time Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu has done to improve the lives of the masses of the state will remain green forever.

A RING-SIDE VIEW OF KARUNANIDHI

(By Subbaram Danda)

Undoubtedly, former Chief Minister M. Karunanidhi was an admirable person, even if one did not agree with his political ideology or his personal beliefs.  I had many occasions to interact with him closely as a journalist.  I was an Accredited Correspondent of the “Indian Express” and later Chief of News Bureau of the “Financial Express.”

He was an excellent media manager.  He never ran away from the press.  He was always willing to meet newsmen if he was free.  His style was unique.  Even in informal chats, when journalists sought his reaction to any development or wanted any clarification, he would tell them, “Put it in the form of a question in clear terms and I will answer them.”  He would listen to them carefully before giving a reply.  His responses would be straight, leaving no room for any ambiguity.  Often he would add a witty expression too.  Thus he would ensure there was no room for any misinterpretation later.  This “question and answer” format he always followed.

Karunanidhi was a journalist himself and a capable writer.  He knew what would generate a good news story. He had the knack of giving out information in such a way that it always hit the headlines.  

Karunanidhi was reverentially and fondly called Kalaignar by the people, especially his cadres. In Tamil it means scholar of arts.  He was not only an effective writer in Tamil and a versatile poet but also a forceful orator.  

He was a great administrator.  I knew several IAS officers, who loved to work under his stewardship.  He respected their views before taking a final decision in any matter.  He never slighted them.  At the same time, he held tight reins over them.

What made him stand out was his earnestness to be a friend of the masses.  Many of his schemes were directed at their well-being.  Decades ago, on his birthday every year, he would receive donations from celebrities who came to greet him and use those funds for the welfare of the downtrodden.  One such measure was abolition of hand-pulled rickshaws, which were replaced by cycle rickshaws. Another stupendous initiative was construction of multi-storeyed tenements for hut-dwellers.

In later years, giving away freebies was his master stroke.  This idea emanated from his close friend Dr. Naganathan, Head of the Department of Econometrics at Madras University. Yet another far-reaching measure was enactment of legislation to treat women on par with men when they inherited properties of their parents.  During one of his earlier tenures, he implemented welfare schemes for the men of the media too. 

These and several other innumerable measures earned him name and fame from a large section of the population of the state and easily endeared him to them.  The beneficiaries always remained grateful to him.

Of course, he faced many criticisms and charges.  But his popular programmes overshadowed them.

He was a great political strategist and the brain behind the games that his party played.  It is difficult to find another personality like him in future.

Without any doubt Karunanidhi was a blazing star in the Indian political firmament.

When I watched on T.V. the final journey of Kalaignar to Anna Square, where he was laid to rest with full military honours, memories flashed in my mind of my coverage of the funeral of his mentor C. N. Annadurai for my newspaper long long ago.  What crowds!   

Here are some photographs of Kalaignar’s last journey:

Surging crowds at the funeral procession

The body of Karunanidhi being taken in a gun carriage

Karunanidhi's body before being laid to rest

The embossed  epitaph on the coffin:
"Having toiled without rest, he now takes rest."

Bereaved family members

(Ends)

August 09, 2018   

RECOLLECTIONS Sweet and Sour - 06

Mango is the fruit of summer.  Though the king of fruits comes in different varieties, the most preferred ones are Banganapalli, Alphonso, Malgova and Imam Pasand for their own unique flavour and feel.  

MY MANGO MUSINGS

(By Subbaram Danda)

I cannot forget an incident that took place one good summer morning a few decades ago.  An emissary of a prominent industrialist of Tamil Nadu brought to my residence a big basket of mangoes in a public relations exercise.    

“Sir, this is from the famous Thathachariar garden of Srirangam.  It is the best quality Imam Pasand grown with all care and naturally ripened.  It is not easily available in the market. My boss has asked me to deliver it to you with his personal compliments,” the emissary told me in an endearing voice.  The basket would have contained at least 50 fruits neatly tucked in hay.

It was unexpected. I was surprised.  I could not react immediately.  It had been my policy not to accept gifts sent privately to my residence by any person.   But this was a tricky situation.  The industrialist was an excellent source of news for me and a very likeable person.  He had given me clues about major business developments, which helped me land good scoops many a time.  He had also given me his unlisted personal phone number, so that I could contact him any time without having to go through his secretary.   (In those days there were only landlines and some specially acquired numbers were not listed in the official telephone directory.)

I was in a peculiar dilemma.  If I rejected the gift, how would he react?  Would he think that I was rude?  Finally I took the plunge and politely declined the gift, hoping he would understand me.    

The emissary was aghast.  He showed me a long list of possible recipients, which included senior bureaucrats, politicians, media persons, bankers and others who mattered.  Still, I stuck to my guns.  He left somewhat puzzled and disappointed.

My fears were unfounded.  The industrialist called me back and expressed his appreciation of my stand.  Afterwards, we became very thick friends.

Gifts were the big bugbear of many journalists. What would constitute a gift?  Would the lunch given to journalists at a press conference in a five-star hotel by a company declaring its annual financial results constitute a gift or only the give-away offered at the end?  Similarly, if an organization took a press party to its plant in another part of the state to showcase its activities, would it amount to a gift?

All these factors led me to take a decision – a viable and practical one.  I would not mind accepting any gift given openly in a press meet or at a get together but not those sent home personally.  I threw the idea at my junior colleagues and they happily agreed to it.  It was this stand that made me decline the basket of Imam Pasand mangoes.  I was sure that other senior journalists in the city at that time too had similar standards with some exceptions here and there.  

I should acknowledge here with all appreciation that reporters of The Hindu, on instructions from their higher ups, had always declined gifts of every kind, given openly or not, though they partook in lunches and conducted tours.

This was the position a few decades ago.  Then there were only a few newspapers besides All India radio and Doordarshan.  A lot of water has flowed since then.  It is anybody’s guess what the situation is right now. 

A word about Imam Pasand.  It is a rare variety grown only in select areas in our country.  It is somewhat more expensive than others.  A Hindi or Urdu word, it means Imam’s favourite.  The Imam was Mughal emperor Humayun.   Connoisseurs look at it as an outstanding variety in view of its rich and unique taste.  However, my choice is Banganapalli first and then Malgova.   

In the meantime, let us enjoy the mango, whatever the variety is, as long as the season lasts! (Ends)

June 01, 2018

KUFRI : A COOL DESTINATION

KUFRI, a hill station located at about 20 kilometres from Shimla, has emerged as the modern-day upscale summer retreat of north India.  This is the result of crass commercialization and exploding population of Shimla taking a toll on its infrastructure.  In fact, many tourists stay in Kufri and travel to Shimla for sight-seeing.

Hill station Kufri lies perched on Himalayan range of mountains

FOR A RELAXING HOLIDAY

(By Subbaram Danda)

The road from Shimla rises steeply and gains staggering 1,400 feet in altitude by the time Kufri is reached.  Its elevation at 8,630 feet above the sea level enables one to see the Himalayan range of mountains in their natural splendour.  Several holiday resorts and entertainment joints have come up in Kufri to serve a discerning clientele.  Already it has a very popular zoo that showcases rare Himalayan animals and birds.   

Sterling Resort

We stayed at Sterling Kufri that nestled on a hillock offering panoramic views of the verdant valleys and gleaming peaks around.  Its rooms were spacious with all modern facilities.  In the mornings through a large window in our room we could watch the sun rise over distant mountains and glow in a flush of fiery orange light – a rare and awesome sight.  Though the night temperature touched 10 degrees C, we did not feel the chill, as the room was centrally heated.  It proved an ideal place to relax. 

Interestingly, we did not have to pay anything for our stay, as a couple of decades ago we had purchased some holiday units in Sterling that entitle us to stay in its resorts for certain days a year.   We had only to pay nominal utility charges.  In the restaurant too we were eligible for a 20% discount besides a 5% concession for senior citizens.  We were pleasantly surprised to find that south Indian dishes like idly, dosa, vada, uppuma and kitchadi were available in the restaurant together with two types of chutneys and sambar.  In fact, chefs prepared dosas in our full view in a corner of the restaurant.  Interestingly, they were much sought after by north Indian guests.

Frontage of Sterling Resort at Kufri

Our room in the resort

Sunrise as seen through a window in our room

Hills and valleys could be seen from our room

The valley behind the resort

In the restaurant of the resort

Breakfast in the restaurant

Chefs making dosas

In the Reception area

At the resort's parking lot

Various blocks of the resort

Adventure Resorts Theme Park

Touted as the “best hill adventure venue,” the park attracts the young and the old alike.  We went there around 10:00 a.m.  Its attractions included Sky Swinger, Bungy Trempoline,  Zipline, Go Carting and a variety of other rides.  Among the in-house fare were the House of Horrors and a 5D cinema.

We carefully avoided the rides in view of our age and settled for the film out of curiosity to know what those 5D effects were.  We were taken inside a theatre with seats of a different kind.  There were no arm rests.  We had to hold two vertical bars in the front with our two hands, keeping our legs on a somewhat raised footrests.  Our seat belts were fastened.  We wore 3D glasses.

We heard a bell ring and the film whirred to a start.  It featured a roller-coaster ride.  When it took a steep plunge or turned at an alarmingly high speed, our seats tilted accordingly, giving the feeling that we were participating in the ride.  When it pierced through a waterfall, real water from an overhead sprinkler fell on us in a mild shower.  Occasionally a shrill hooter came alive, supplementing the sounds coming from the film.  It was a virtual roller-coaster ride.

    

Everything was over in five minutes.  It was a new experience for us.  Apart from the 3Ds with which we were familiar, the two other dimensions were seat-tilting and water sprinkling.

Later, we went round the large park, just looking around.  There were many spots providing excellent views of the Himalayan peaks in the mellow sunlight.  We felt evenings would be far more pleasant there.

At the entrance to the theme park

Sky Swinger in the background

Shopping arcade in the theme park

A cottage in the theme park

Himalayan ranges as seen from the theme park

Around the theme park

Himalayan Nature Park

The park was rich in Himalayan flora and fauna.  Stretching over 220 acres, it housed animals and birds in large enclosures.  Mammals of different types like musk deer, black bear, Tibetan wolf, leopard, and pheasant were the major attractions in the park, in addition to well-grown trees like deodar, oak and pine. 

Long paved walkways enabled visitors to go round the vast area in an orderly fashion.  Boards at intervals provided information on the animals that could be seen in the vicinity. In our exploration, we spotted a leopard at a distance hiding behind a boulder and a black bear splashing water in a tank on the ground.  After a while the bear came out of the tank and stood on its edge for a few minutes, as if posing for our cameras. From a close range we also glanced at a few Himalayan wild goats. Interestingly, we also stepped into a mini museum located in the premises.

A black bear coming out of a water tank

In the mini museum of the Himalayan Nature Park

In the hill station there were a few other joints, which offered a slightly different fare.  There youngsters enjoyed pony rides along long ridge fringes.  These places would come especially alive during the times of snowfall with several games geared to the season.

At the end of it all, we felt Kufri provided us a relaxed and tranquil holiday.  Undoubtedly, it is a unique hill-station where a man, caught in the whirlpool of present-day life, can find perceptible solace. (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn concludes)    

May 20, 2018

THE SIGHTS OF SHIMLA

Shimla is an all season hill station in north India. During the months of snowfall the town looks spectacular, while in summer its climate is salubrious. Its beauty and charm were brought home to us in south India a few decades ago by the film “Anbe Vaa,” where matinee idol M. G. Ramachandran went eloquent singing the song “Puthiya Vaanam, Puthiya Bhoomi….” traversing the most popular stretches of the town.

  

A PACK OF ATTRACTIONS

(By Subbaram Danda)

Shimla has several places of attraction for tourists.  Apart from the Hanuman temple on one of its seven hills, a widely visited site is Viceregal Lodge, which was the venue for talks between the British rulers and Indian leaders on granting independence to the subcontinent.  Its Ridge area is popular among the young and the old to hang out lazily or walk around leisurely.  Its Mall Street and adjacent bazaars are known for their brisk sales of everything, especially handicrafts and woollen wear.  

The Viceregal Lodge

The Ridge area

The Viceregal Lodge

It is an imposing Victorian-style edifice built in 1888.  Constructed entirely with stone blocks, it ranks among the British India’s monumental buildings in the country.  It was intended to be the summer residence of the Viceroy in India.  After Indian independence, it became the Rashtrapati Niwas, official summer residence of the President of India.  But this status did not last long.  In October 1965, President Radhakrishnan converted it into a prime educational institution.  The building became the functioning centre of the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, a post-doctoral research facility.   

History buffs will be interested to know that in the summer of 1945, the Viceregal Lodge was the scene of what came to be known as the Shimla Conference attended by stalwarts like Jawaharlal Nehru, Sardar Vallabhai Patel, Maulana Azad and Mohammed Ali Jinna.  There a plan was discussed for creating a "self-government" in India.  With no consensus emerging, a major opportunity was lost to have a united India.  Mahatma Gandhi had also been there four times.

A conducted tour into a section of the building revealed interesting facts.   A historical exhibit we could see was a circular table with some chairs around it.  It was here that the Shimla Agreement was signed, which led to the partition of India.  Some articles and photographs of the British rule in India were also on display.

We also learned that Henry Irwin, who designed the building, was also the designer of the Mysore Palace.  More fascinating was the fact that rainwater harvesting was put in place even in those days.  Rainwater was collected and stored in two large sumps under the lawns in front of the building.  

In the sprawling compound of  the Viceregal Lodge

The lawns and deodar trees add charm to the Viceregal Lodge

The Lodge, now Indian Institute of Advanced Studies

The Ridge Area

It is an elevated terrain, flat and vast, ringed by metallic railings.  No vehicle is allowed into it.  People can go there only by climbing any of a few fairly steep but well paved approach streets.  All around it there are impressive buildings, prominent ones being the stone-built Town Hall and the Christ Church.  Statues of national and local leaders dot the periphery.   There are also neatly tended parks. 

It was fascinating to look beyond the railings.  We could view plunging valleys and wooded hills interspersed with colourfully tiled houses.  At a distance the snow-capped peaks of the high Himalayas appeared in a hazy light.   

We were told that visitors would throng the place from early in the morning and the jostling crowds could be seen till late in the night.  In times of snow, the Ridge would come especially alive.  Entire area would shimmer in snow and people in heavy thermal clothes could be seen skiing there in gay abandon. 

The magnificent Jakhu Hanuman statue as seen from the Ridge area

The Christ Church in the area

In front of a prominent restaurant

A sculpture at the Army Training Command near the Ridge area

A statue of the Founder of Himachal, Dr. Y.S. Parmar

The Mall Street and Bazaars

If one is a shopping enthusiast, this is the place.  At a lower level to the Ridge and on its approach streets shops sell a variety of goods.  Locally-made handicrafts and woollen wear are a specialty.  Eateries, including at least one south Indian restaurant, bakeries, ice cream joints, and cool drink parlours do good business.  

There are a few other tourist sites, including a museum, a minor waterfall and a golf course.  We skipped them.  (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 17, 2018

THE DIVINE DESTINATION

While working on our tri-city itinerary, we came to know about a Hanuman temple on top of the highest of the seven hills of Shimla called Jakhu.  It is ancient and very famous in north India.  For us in the south, it is not well known.  We accorded high priority to a visit to the temple.  More fascinating is the fact that in the premises of the temple stands a gigantic statue of the Lord visible from several parts of Shimla.

THE HIGHEST, COLOSSAL AND GRAND

(By Subbaram Danda)

The Hanuman statue, 108 feet tall, overlooks majestically the hills and valleys around.  At an altitude of 8,050 feet in the Himalayan range, it is the highest of its kind in the world.  It was installed only about eight years ago.  

The origin of the temple is interesting.  According to a legend, in the epic Ramayana, Hanuman landed on the Jakhu hill on his way to the Himalayas to fetch Sanjeevani herb to cure Lakshmana wounded in the fight against Ravana in Sri Lanka.  He intended to meet a sage on the hill to know where exactly he could find the herb.  After getting the advice, he immediately resumed his journey.   Later, following some incidents, a self-evolved idol of the Lord appeared at Jakhu and the sage built a temple over it and with the footprints of Hanuman.

People have to trek about three kilometres along a steep unpaved way from a point in the Ridge area of Shimla to reach the entrance to the temple.   Small cars can go up but have to stop at some distance before the entrance.  Fortunately our taxi driver, an expert in negotiating sharp curves and bends, cleverly managed to take us to the entrance. 

A wide welcome arch greeted the devotees.   Passing under it, we had to climb a long flight of covered stairs that ran alongside a ramp.  It did not, however, prove to be arduous.   We did not keep a count of the steps though a kid in front of us was shouting numbers as he climbed up.  We did not pant or gasp despite the high altitude.  The fresh morning breeze and the green scenery around kept us in good humour.

At the entrance to the Hanuman temple

Steps leading to the temple

At the end, we were thrilled as the grand statue of Hanuman came to our view on the right side. A short distance away we could find a large raised platform approachable by climbing a few steps.  It proved to be the ideal place to stand and take a good look at the entire statue.  It was also the excellent spot to click photos or take selfies.

The gigantic statue in saffron colour shimmered in the soft morning sunlight.  It was a mesmerising sight.  Hanuman appeared in serene splendour wearing a crown-like headgear and wielding a heavy mace (gadha) in his right hand, its spherical end touching the ground.   A garland of what looked like “rudrakshas” hung gracefully from the neck.  Well-grown deodar trees formed a ring of greenery around the statue adding a touch of natural charm to the entire scene.

The majestic statue of Hanuman

Beyond, a colourful ornamental arch with a string of small bells and a large one at the centre beckoned the devotees into the sanctum.  The space in front of the sanctum, where people could stand and pray, displayed photos on walls depicting Ramayana scenes and Hindu deities.  Inside the sanctum, the self-evolved idol of Hanuman appeared elegantly decorated with ornaments and flowers.  Around the sanctum there was a corridor for devotees to go round in a parikrama.

The ornate arch before the sanctum

In the sanctum

The entire temple complex has been beautifully developed with lawns and flower plants in the style of a garden. There are several small shrines at different points.  A children’s play area is a great addition.

Outside the main temple

A shrine in the premises

Children's play area

One could not miss seeing monkeys running around the entire area in gay abandon.  We were warned in advance that we should not carry anything with us openly that could attract their attention.  They would pounce on the people, grab them in a jiffy and run away.  They would not spare even spectacles, cell phones and cameras.  There were instances, where sandals were also snatched away.

So, to be on the safe side, we left our bags and water bottles in the taxi itself.  We did not wear even our spectacles.  We concealed our cell phones in our pockets.  We pulled them out only after making sure our monkey friends were not around and only then clicked our pictures.  Thank God, we remained untouched by them!

Last year a cable car service was introduced from the centre of Shimla to take people close to the temple premises.  But, we did not take advantage of this facility, as our driver had assured us that he would take and leave us at the temple’s entrance.  He did so as promised.

The temple visit was the high point of our Shimla itinerary.  Other sights of Shimla will find a place in the next post.  (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 14, 2018