Thursday 17 May 2018

THE SIGHTS OF SHIMLA



Shimla is an all season hill station in north India. During the months of snowfall the town looks spectacular, while in summer its climate is salubrious. Its beauty and charm were brought home to us in south India a few decades ago by the film “Anbe Vaa,” where matinee idol M. G. Ramachandran went eloquent singing the song “Puthiya Vaanam, Puthiya Bhoomi….” traversing the most popular stretches of the town.

  
A PACK OF ATTRACTIONS
(By Subbaram Danda)


Shimla has several places of attraction for tourists.  Apart from the Hanuman temple on one of its seven hills, a widely visited site is Viceregal Lodge, which was the venue for talks between the British rulers and Indian leaders on granting independence to the subcontinent.  Its Ridge area is popular among the young and the old to hang out lazily or walk around leisurely.  Its Mall Street and adjacent bazaars are known for their brisk sales of everything, especially handicrafts and woollen wear.  

The Viceregal Lodge

The Ridge area

The Viceregal Lodge

It is an imposing Victorian-style edifice built in 1888.  Constructed entirely with stone blocks, it ranks among the British India’s monumental buildings in the country.  It was intended to be the summer residence of the Viceroy in India.  After Indian independence, it became the Rashtrapati Niwas, official summer residence of the President of India.  But this status did not last long.  In October 1965, President Radhakrishnan converted it into a prime educational institution.  The building became the functioning centre of the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, a post-doctoral research facility.   

History buffs will be interested to know that in the summer of 1945, the Viceregal Lodge was the scene of what came to be known as the Shimla Conference attended by stalwarts like Jawaharlal Nehru, Sardar Vallabhai Patel, Maulana Azad and Mohammed Ali Jinna.  There a plan was discussed for creating a "self-government" in India.  With no consensus emerging, a major opportunity was lost to have a united India.  Mahatma Gandhi had also been there four times.

A conducted tour into a section of the building revealed interesting facts.   A historical exhibit we could see was a circular table with some chairs around it.  It was here that the Shimla Agreement was signed, which led to the partition of India.  Some articles and photographs of the British rule in India were also on display.

We also learned that Henry Irwin, who designed the building, was also the designer of the Mysore Palace.  More fascinating was the fact that rainwater harvesting was put in place even in those days.  Rainwater was collected and stored in two large sumps under the lawns in front of the building.  

In the sprawling compound of  the Viceregal Lodge

The lawns and deodar trees add charm to the Viceregal Lodge

The Lodge, now Indian Institute of Advanced Studies

The Ridge Area

It is an elevated terrain, flat and vast, ringed by metallic railings.  No vehicle is allowed into it.  People can go there only by climbing any of a few fairly steep but well paved approach streets.  All around it there are impressive buildings, prominent ones being the stone-built Town Hall and the Christ Church.  Statues of national and local leaders dot the periphery.   There are also neatly tended parks. 

It was fascinating to look beyond the railings.  We could view plunging valleys and wooded hills interspersed with colourfully tiled houses.  At a distance the snow-capped peaks of the high Himalayas appeared in a hazy light.   

We were told that visitors would throng the place from early in the morning and the jostling crowds could be seen till late in the night.  In times of snow, the Ridge would come especially alive.  Entire area would shimmer in snow and people in heavy thermal clothes could be seen skiing there in gay abandon. 

The magnificent Jakhu Hanuman statue as seen from the Ridge area

The Christ Church in the area

In front of a prominent restaurant

A sculpture at the Army Training Command near the Ridge area

A statue of the Founder of Himachal, Dr. Y.S. Parmar

The Mall Street and Bazaars

If one is a shopping enthusiast, this is the place.  At a lower level to the Ridge and on its approach streets shops sell a variety of goods.  Locally-made handicrafts and woollen wear are a specialty.  Eateries, including at least one south Indian restaurant, bakeries, ice cream joints, and cool drink parlours do good business.  

There are a few other tourist sites, including a museum, a minor waterfall and a golf course.  We skipped them.  (Ends)

(Our tri-city sojourn will continue)

May 17, 2018