Saturday, 16 March 2019

JHANSI : WITNESS TO AN ERA



Ever since I watched the movie “Manikarnika: the Queen of Jhansi,” a curious desire was growing in me that I should visit Jhansi and see for myself at first hand the famous fort there, which was the scene of a mighty battle. It was a surprise for me that the desire was fulfilled sooner than expected, when the group tour came my way. From the fort the young brave warrior queen fought a fierce battle against the British forces.  When victory eluded her, in a daring feat she escaped jumping from the top of the fort on horseback with her adopted kid tied to her back.
 

 THE TALE OF A HISTORIC FORT
(By Subbaram Danda)


In front of the historic Jhansi fort

We drove to Jhansi from Gwalior.  It was evening.  We wound our way up a hill to reach the fort.  Our excitement ran high, as the fort came into our view.  On the left we could see a rugged high wall of the fort and on the right the city spreading out all over below. Ahead was the entry gate.  We got down from our cars and our trek began. 


A park adjoining a wall of the fort

The city of Jhansi spreading out below the hill-top fort

We ambled over long ramps, moved along maze-like walkways and trudged up steep staircases.  We went past cannons, large barren rooms, cavernous closed spaces, vacant mansions, disused garrisons and some parks.  We clicked photos and selfies, even as our tour guide waxed eloquent on the citadel and the gallantry of the queen of Jhansi.   

On the top terrace of the fort

A park in the fort premises
The fort was built in the 17th century by a ruler of the Bundela dynasty Bir Singh Deo.  Standing on a steep hillock it measures 1,000 feet in length and 750 feet in width.  With 22 bastions, massive fortification walls made of solid granite blocks of 15 to 20 inches in thickness and moats on two sides, the fort looks impregnable.  Ten gates, strategically located, provide access to the fort.  

The fortification walls

A typical bastion of the Jhansi fort
Manikarnika was the maiden name of the queen of the princely state of Jhansi.  She was popular with the people through her good deeds and earned their admiration and support.  During the Indian mutiny, also known as the First War of Independence, she led Jhansi forces and fought the British heroically.   

At another spot in the fort

With group members
In due course, when the British forces were all set to overtake the fort, Rani Jhansi figured that at any cost she should avoid being captured.  Under the cover of darkness in the night she rode over ramps to the top of the fort on her favourite horse Badal with her adopted kid tied to her back.  On the long terrace she galloped till she reached a chosen corner.  In a swift daring act she prodded the faithful and well-trained horse to jump off the parapet wall into a ravine deep down below.  She and the kid survived the steep fall but unfortunately the horse died.  With a heavy heart she managed to escape to the town of Kalpi helped by some guards, where she again fought the British forces.  Defeated there also, she eventually moved to Gwalior, where she attained martyrdom.  In the Jhansi fort, the spot from where the queen jumped off on her horse back has been a site of great tourist interest.  A board proclaims the valiant act of the young warrior. 



This is undoubtedly a unique fort that bears witness to acts of valour of a different kind..

(The series will continue)

March 16, 2019