“A city of temples” -- this tagline is very apt for
Bhubaneswar. A string of centuries-old
temples attracts a large number of visitors daily from all over India and
abroad. In fact, the city has very many
other shrines as well. The tagline has
stuck though the capital city of Odisha has made rapid strides towards becoming
modern. The city is an essential part of
the state’s Golden Triangle -- Puri, Konark and Bhubaneswar.
RARE, STRANGE AND UNIQUE
(By Subbaram Danda)
Lingaraj
temple
Among all abodes of Hindu worship in Bhubaneswar,
Lingaraj temple stands out as the most unique, largest and most visited. Built in the eleventh century, the sprawling
temple is dedicated to Harihara, a fusion of Vishnu and Shiva. This mode of veneration is a rarity. There are only about half a dozen similar
temples in India and a few overseas. Paintings
and sculptures, of course, liberally portray this form of divinity. The concept
of Harihara is a profound philosophical expression that unifies two apparently
different aspects of the same Supreme Being.
Built by King Jajati Kesari, it was originally designed
as a Shiva temple as the term Lingaraj connotes. The Shiva linga in the sanctum is said to be
Swayambhu (self-originated). But in
course of time with Vaishnavism becoming prominent in the region, the linga
itself came to be treated as Harihara and worshipped accordingly. The temple also underwent some changes. At the main entrance, on either side of the
door, one can see even today a Trishul (trident) and a Chakra (wheel)
representing the two deities.
Around the main temple, there are numerous smaller
shrines for other deities within the complex fortified by a high wall. The main Vimana (tower over the sanctum)
rises to a height of 180 feet and exhibits sculptures of divine beings,
royalty, dancers, musicians, animals and hunters.
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| The tower of the Lingaraj temple |
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| An interior view |
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| A long shot of the Lingaraj temple |
Rajarani
temple
Mystery surrounds the Rajarani temple. It stands without any presiding deity
inside! It has always been so, according
to our guide. Why? He has no credible explanation. Interestingly, all other essential
architectural segments of the temple are intact -- the tower, the audience hall and the porches.
Another intriguing feature is that the name of the
temple has nothing to do with any king or queen but refers to a type of
sandstone locally available called Rajarani.
The temple was built with such stones.
Who constructed it?
It is also an enigma. An
inference attributes it to Somavamshi kings, who had migrated from Central
India to Orissa. Similarly, its time of
construction is a conjecture – 11th century.
All said and done, it is a great temple to visit,
especially because its sculptures come out alive, brilliantly and gorgeously.
A well-laid-out pathway with neat lawns and hedge
plants lead visitors to the temple far interior. Cool shadow trees encircle the small
temple. The frontage is not very
impressive. But going around it, one is
struck by the beauty and exuberance of its architectural splendour. Its main tower rises to a height of 60 feet.
Figures of slender women fondling a child, looking
into a mirror, removing an anklet, caressing a bird, playing an instrument or
holding a tree branch are all there in an exceptionally well-preserved form. Sculptures of damsels in amorous dalliance do
not fail to shock the visitors.
As there is no worship, only tourists and heritage
lovers visit the temple.
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| The imposing tower of the Rajarani temple |
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| The well-preserved sculptures of the Rajarani temple |
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| The overall view of the Rajarani temple |
Mukteswar
temple
One of the most compact places of worship in
Bhubaneswar, Mukteswar temple is renowned for its architectural
adornments. Its arched gateway is a
masterpiece of extra-ordinary craftsmanship in stone. No visitor misses the
languorously reclining damsels etched on it and bands of other delicate
embellishments. In another respect also it is
significant. The gateway is not part of
any other temple in the region. This
aspect imparts uniqueness to the temple.
The ceiling of the porch displays an eight petal lotus
in a brilliant formation. The tower and
walls of the temple exhibit sculptures drawn from Hindu scriptures and tales of
Panchatantra. Of course, beasts and beauties have their due place. A specialty is portrayal of ascetics in
different poses of meditation. Through
this depiction Mukteswar temple seeks to convey that meditation is essential to
attain mukti (deliverance from earthly bonds).
The Shiva temple dates back to the 10th
century and it is postulated that Somavamshi king Yayati built it. It is considered a monument of importance in
the study of development of Hindu temples in Odisha.
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| The ornate arched gateway of the Mukteswar temple |
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| The overall view of the temple |
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| A neat pathway leading to the Mukteswar temple |
These are the three most prominent temples that a tourist to Bhubaneswar should visit for their variegated fare. They are sure to leave a lasting impression on anyone. There are still a few others worth a visit. We could not, however, go there for want of time.
End of the series on Odisha.
April 18, 2017
