Saturday 25 April 2015

A MARVEL IN MARBLE



THE JAIN TEMPLE AT RANAKPUR
(By Subbaram Danda)


We stood stunned, looking at the magnificent façade of the Jain temple at Ranakpur.  It was a spectacle.  The marble edifice shimmered gorgeously in the mid-day sun.  The long flight of steps leading to its main entrance, the porches in three tiers, the rows of towers and the central dome at the top provided a delectable treat to the eyes.  We had read a lot about this abode of worship but what we actually saw surpassed all those accounts.  We were gazing at an exquisite sanctuary of spiritual art.


The front view of the temple

We – my wife and I – were visiting the Jain temple on our way from Jodhpur to Udaipur in the course of our Rajasthan vacation in March 2015.  It was an important item on our itinerary.  Ranakpur is located at about 165 kilometres south of Jodhpur and about 90 kilometres north of Udaipur. 

The temple seen from another angle

A pious Jain businessman constructed the temple in the 15th century following a vision he had.  In this effort he received the patronage of the liberal king of Mewar, Rana Kumbha.  It came up in a valley on the western side of the Aravalli range of mountains.  Renovated from time to time, it stands on a basement of 48,000 sq.ft.

The temple is dedicated to Rishabhadev, the first of the 24 Jain Tirthankaras.   A Tirthankara is a “liberated being”, who has severed all earthly bonds, crossed the stream of rebirths and attained the status of the omniscient.  He guides others on the path of renunciation and emancipation.  Rishabhadev, being the first, is also known as Adhinath (the first Lord).  The temple is one of the five major pilgrim centres of the Jains.

The massive temple has four separate entrances, one in each of the cardinal directions.  All of them lead visitors, through columned halls, to a central arena and finally to the sanctum.  In it there is a four-faced marble image of Lord Rishabhadev.  The sanctum is surrounded by several smaller shrines.   One more line of cells with holy images encircles these shrines.  Towers and domes rise above these shrines and cells.   

As we walked up the steps and passed through the main portal of the temple, a vista of architectural splendour unfolded before us.  We stood in a spacious high hall, where pillars, pedestals, capitals, lintels and the domed ceiling displayed intricately sculpted floral designs, animal motifs, celestial figures, dancing nymphs and geometrical patterns.  We saw many foreign visitors listening intently to guides, who waxed eloquent on the special characteristics of the temple.  They looked at every piece of artwork in awe. 

The ornate pillars, pedestals, capitals and lintels as seen from the front high hall

The intricately chiselled designs on pillar capitals and the ceiling 

The sculpted embellishments on a ceiling under a dome

Far ahead of us was the sanctum, where worship was going on for the principal idol of Rishabhadev amidst the chanting of hymns.  Many devotees thronged the assembly hall in front of it.  We offered our prayers from a distance and moved on. 

Hall after hall and corridor after corridor presented a variety of creative carvings.  In all, we were told, the temple has 29 halls, 80 domes and 1,444 pillars.  What is awe-inspiring is the fact that each pillar is unique in design and each dome’s ceiling is different. This feature offered us plenty of photo opportunities and we clicked liberally.  Only the idols of worship were not to be photographed. 
  

Each of the 1,444 marble pillars in the temple is different in structure and design

Animal motifs and geometrical patterns enliven the temple

Celestial figures and dancing nymphs on pillars

Within the temple complex we could see several open courtyards, which would allow sun rays to penetrate the temple, illuminating its interiors.   A significant effect of it is the wonderful play of light and shade on the pillars. As the rays shift through the day the pillars appear to change their colour from pale yellow to light gold. 
  

A tower as seen from a courtyard
  
Among other noteworthy features were two big bells placed near the sanctum.    Along a corridor a wall displayed an image of 23rd Tirthankar Parshwanath.  It was enclosed within an intricately carved band of flowers, mermaids, snakes and knots.  Elsewhere we came across life-sized marble elephants standing at the centre of small halls. 


The circular image of 23rd Tirthankar Parshwanath

An elephant in marble

Posing with another elephant statue amidst sculpted pillars

As we kept going, it was not hard to realize that the entire temple is a treasure trove of spiritual art.  An elderly woman from the US, who struck a conversation with us, was exuberant in her praise of the temple.  She did not mince words when she said, “I have not seen such a wonder in my life so far.  Every element here is a masterpiece.”  We could not but be in agreement with her.  What we were witnessing was poetry in stone.  

(Ends)

April 25, 2015