Wednesday 2 April 2014

THE GRAND MOSQUE OF ABU DHABI


THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN
(By Subbaram Danda)


I and my wife were on a short holiday in the United Arab Emirates from March 20 to 24, 2014, visiting Dubai, Sharjah and Abu Dhabi.  We were advised not to miss the Grand Mosque, a modern-day architectural marvel in the UAE capital of Abu Dhabi.  It was open to persons of all nationalities and religions.  One morning we set out exploring it.


A broad corridor in the mosque with rows of glistening pillars and arches

The drive on the multi-lane super highway from Dubai to Abu Dhabi, a stretch of 150 kms, was pleasant. As our car sped touching 120 kms per hour nonchalantly many times, high-rise buildings of every shape, size and colour on both sides of the road whizzed by. Our driver assured us, “We are permitted to drive upto 140 kms per hour in several segments but any adventure above that limit will be risky. The traffic regulators here are very strict and we do not take any chances either.”


We kept enjoying the passing scenes, occasionally taking snaps, looking forward to seeing the new wonder. The traffic was also not much in the morning hour. What was striking was the well-laid out pink and white flower beds on the pavements running along the highway, providing pleasant relief to the concrete structures.

The driver interjected, “Hope madam has brought her passport with her. She has to leave it in the safe-custody of the mosque’s security in return for a black abaya (full body robe with hood for the head), which she should wear while in the mosque. Finally, it is to be returned and passport got back. It is free. Men cannot wear sleeveless T-shirts nor shorts above the knee.” Soon, we entered the underground parking lot of the mosque. In the same floor, the abaya booth was located. The procurement and the wearing of the abaya proved easy.


A side view

Making our way through an escalator we reached the mosque level. What we saw ahead of us was stunning. A long line of white marble pillars in twin format glistened in the mild morning sun against a clear blue sky. The pillars, which supported arches, and domes above, had golden embellishments that added a touch of enchantment to the scene. Our first impression was that the mosque was a picture of opulence and serenity in equal measure. Photos and videos were permitted without any restriction.

Skirting the long stretch, we reached the main entrance. We could see people of all nationalities and faiths sauntering there in large numbers. It was amusing to see some western women struggling to hold their black robes, as their men clicked their pictures.

It was ten, the time for the first official complimentary conducted tour of the mosque. About thirty men and women from far and wide had gathered in the foyer. We joined them.


The main facade

A young abaya-clad English speaking UAE guide gave each one of us a hand set and an earphone to be able to hear her clearly. “Welcome to the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, popularly known as the Grand Mosque of Abu Dhabi. It was conceived by the late first President of UAE Sheikh Zayed. Its cornerstone was laid in late 1990s and the completed mosque was thrown open to worshippers in 2007,” she narrated.

To build it, high quality materials such as marble, gold leaf, crystals, gems, ceramics and glass were procured from all over the world, particularly from Morocco, Greece, Turkey, Italy, Germany, India, Iran and China. Craftsmen and workers also came from several geographical areas.

The guide led the group along a tile-paved broad corridor supported by four long rows of white marble pillars. With gold-covered patterns at the top, the pillars cast a magical spell on the visitors (the first photo above). “The 22,500 square metre mosque, one of the largest in the world, can accommodate 41,000 worshippers. It has four soaring minarets standing at the four corners. It features 82 domes of various sizes and more than 1,000 columns. The largest dome is located at the centre of the main prayer hall,” she explained.


Glittering chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall

After a short while we were asked to leave our footwear on wooden stands and enter the main prayer hall. It was a huge space lavishly decorated with chandeliers, carpets, vaulted arches and Islamic calligraphy. The chandelier at the centre was undoubtedly a brilliant piece of artwork made in Germany with crystals and colourful gems shining out of gilded nest of strands. It descended gracefully from a point high above. Weighing about 12 tons, it is considered one of the world’s largest. Two smaller versions, also in the main prayer hall, weigh eight tons each. There are four other smaller ones elsewhere in the mosque.

Sensing that we did not shift our gaze from the top, the guide directed us to see the floor. It was another case of superlative workmanship. The world’s largest hand-knotted carpet covered the prayer hall. The carpet, covering an area of 5,700 square metres, was hand-crafted with designs by about 1,200 artisans. It was made of predominantly of wool (about 70 per cent) and cotton.

The guide led us out of the prayer hall and remarked: “Through the Grand Mosque, Sheik Zayed desired to have a channel of interaction with people of all cultures and faiths. By keeping its doors open, he wanted to promote the concept of tolerance, love and understanding among them.”


The central courtyard

The guide signed off in the vast central open courtyard used for congregations and meetings. It was paved with marble and mosaic slabs depicting colourful floral designs. We kept moving around to see the rest of the premises ourselves.

An outstanding feature we noticed was rectangle-shaped tranquil pools of water around the mosque that reflect the pillars and domes with a supernatural touch. We could see people standing in front of them and taking pictures to serve as mementoes. Water fountains in front of the main entrance and a landscaped area with a well-tended garden and date palms added charm to the scene.


Returning with lingering memories

Special lighting arrangements have been made to illuminate the entire edifice at night. The extent and style of illumination would depend on the brightness of the moon as it waxes and wanes through its phases. Twenty-two light towers are in place to provide this effect. Many travel mangers advise their clients to visit the mosque in the evening and stay back for the night illumination.

A state-of-the-art library in the mosque has on its shelves numerous rare manuscripts and imprints.

The Grand Mosque attracts about three million visitors a year, including many celebrities. And sure, memories of an hour-long visit there will linger long.

April 02, 2014