OUR MAGIC MOMENTS IN DELHI

A DAY OF DIFFERENT DELIGHTS

(By Subbaram Danda)

The bewildering entrance to a Hanuman temple in Karol Bagh, Delhi

It was our fleeting visit to Delhi – just a day of transit on our way back home from Nainital after a short holiday in the hill station last month.  We -- my wife and I -- had to make good use of the time at our disposal, as our last visit to the capital city was nearly two decades ago.

Our priority was to visit Akshardham temple – “an abode of eternal divinity” – inaugurated in 2005.  Hailed as an architectural marvel on the banks of the Yamuna, it is dedicated to spiritual leader Swaminarayan, who lived in the later part of the eighteenth and the first half of the nineteenth century radiating “divinity, peace and joy” through his preachings and actions. 

As we stepped into the Akshardham complex in the evening after security checks, we could see far ahead of us a wide, ornate portal.   Once through it, a magnificent panorama unfolded with artistically outstanding buildings, wide pathways, sweeping lawns, flower gardens and water bodies.   A two-storeyed, covered, red stone colonnade of walkway with small towers at intervals encircled the complex like a garland of crimson roses.  Bewitching sculptures adorned every structure.  Spread over 100 acres, we were told, the entire complex had been developed into a treasure trove of “Indian art, heritage and values.” 

Swaminarayan shrine
(Photo: courtesy of Akshardham temple)

The focal point of the complex is a creatively imposing shrine with nine domes and 20 pinnacles, supported by as many as 234 intricately chiselled pillars.  Inside, under the central dome, glitters an eleven-foot-high, gold-plated, serene statue of Swaminarayan in awesome brilliance in a sitting posture.  The dazzle of the profusely carved backdrop overwhelms any visitor.  The lighting is imaginatively done.  In large niches on inner walls shine images of some of the gods of the Indian pantheon -- Sita Ram, Radha Krishna, Lakshmi Narayan and Siva Parvati.  Sculpted figures of various divine forms, spiritual leaders and great devotees can be seen everywhere, including the pillars, brackets, walls and roofs of the other inter-connected domes.   

  

The gold-plated statue of Swaminarayan
(Photo: courtesy of Akshardham temple)

The shrine, measuring 141 feet in height, 316 feet in width and 356 feet in length, rises on a plinth that displays sculpted panels running all around depicting elephants, highlighting their place in nature and their relationship with the divinity, human beings, animals and birds.  Anecdotes of elephants drawn from epics, scriptures and mythology also find expression here.  A placid lake sanctified by the waters collected from 151 rivers, wells and other holy sources skirts the shrine on three sides.  An outstanding aspect is that in its construction ancient Indian architectural traditions were employed, using only pink stones and white marble.  Steel had no place there.  

Among other highlights of the temple complex are chariots of the sun and the moon and a cultural garden with numerous bronze statues of India’s noble personalities.   There are thematic gardens as well.  A unique structure is a step-well-styled sprawling courtyard, where visitors sit to watch special water shows aided by laser beams at specified timings.   There are halls for exhibitions, which take the visitors through centuries of Indian heritage, traditions, sacred places and festivals.  While the entry into the complex is free, there is a ticket for the water show and the exhibitions.

The statistics of Akshardham are awesomely astounding.  More than 300 million man-hours went into its making.  Over 8,000 volunteers from all over the world participated in its construction.  It reached fruition in just five years.  

The next morning we drove round the capital city visiting temples and passing by central government offices.  Our first halt was at a Hanuman temple in Karol Bagh.  Constructed in 1997, it has astounding features.  The entrance to the temple is through a broad cave-like structure that recreates the open mouth of a ferocious demon, which Hanuman is believed to have slain in the epic Ramayana and left in the throes of death.  Its teeth, lips, nostrils and eyes have been scarily done up.  Inside straight ahead, in the sanctum the Hanuman idol appears colourfully decorated with sindoor, flowers and other materials.   There are shrines for several other deities also.

Straddling the slain demon, a gigantic 108-foot-tall statue of Hanuman stands soaring into the sky, towering over an elevated metro line in close proximity.  The statue covers its chest with fingers of both the hands. We were told that on Tuesdays and Saturdays, when special prayers are conducted, the fingers move apart revealing an open chest with the shining images of God Rama and his consort Sita inside, as depicted in Ramayana.  To see this spectacle, large crowds throng the place at these times.  Is it a miracle?  Our information is that a special mechanism has been devised, which makes this possible when activated from inside the temple.   The Hanuman statue has become the new iconic symbol of Delhi.  It has been featured in films and television serials.  

The 108-foot towering Hanuman statue in Karol Bagh

Another temple we visited was one dedicated to Venkateswaraswami, built in recent years and managed by the famous Tirupati Tirumala Devasthanams.  The main image stands majestically in all its splendour like the one in the abode at the hill-station.  The temple complex on a site of 1.17 acres with an entrance tower, a meditation hall, spacious foreground, pathways and other features is in a serene setting. 

Tirupati Tirumala Devasthanam's Venkateswaraswami temple in Delhi

One of our other halts was at another religious and tourist attraction -- Lakshmi Narayan temple also known as Birla Mandir.  In the main shrine stand gloriously the statues of Lakshmi and Narayan.  There are smaller shrines too in the premises.  Built in 1939, it was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi.  According to reports the Father of the Nation had agreed to open the temple on the condition that people of all castes would have free access to it.  (It was a time when certain castes were socially barred from stepping into temples.) 

Lakshmi Narayan temple (Birla Mandir)

During our quick drive we also covered another temple and a Buddhist shrine.  Finally we headed for the famous India Gate.   It is a war memorial for 82,000 soldiers of undivided India.  It resembles the Arch of the Constantine in Rome and the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. 

At India Gate

In the vicinity of the India Gate there are several central government offices and the Rashtrapati Bhavan, where the President of India resides.  We had a quick look at them and returned to our hotel. 

Rashtrapati Bhawan

Central Government offices

Another block of Central Government offices

It was indeed a short span of time delightfully well-spent!

(1,120 words) 

NAINITAL : A BOUQUET OF ATTRACTIONS

A TOURIST'S PARADISE

(By Subbaram Danda)

In Nainital: the mango-shaped Naini lake in the background

As my wife and I commenced our five-day holiday from April 20, 2016 in Nainital, a hill-station in the state of Uttarkhand, about 300 kms from Delhi, we realized that its tourist attractions are more captivating than expected.  There are many places to go, see, admire, photograph and cherish.    

The most enchanting attraction is a long mango-shaped placid lake called Naini in the heart of the town.   A neat promenade with a drive-way alongside has been picturesquely developed with plenty of photo op spots.  Trees, flower plants and benches at intervals provide a touch of elegance.   

The Naini lake and the promenade

It is said that the hill-station lives by the Naini lake.  True, as the day breaks and the waters of the lake shimmer in the mild morning sunshine, the town stirs itself to life.  In course of time, shops, eateries and stalls on the Mall Road that runs all along the lake throw their doors open.  The lake itself becomes a beehive of activity.  Boating, yachting and paddling go on throughout the day.  As twilight descends, lights of houses on the broad hill-side cast a magic spell on the waters of the lake and on the people thronging it.  

Boats on the Naini lake

Colourful premium boats

In the parking area near the lake

We stayed at Bhawanipur Greens, a Sterling Resort.   Located somewhat away from the town, it is itself a retreat to stay carefree, relax and enjoy.  Our room, a spacious one in the second floor, had a balcony overlooking the Kumaon range of mountains along the outer edge of the Himalayas.  

The Sterling Resort

A view of the resort

The resort in the night

A view of the Kumaon Hills near the resort

In the open-air restaurant of the resort

The Kumaon Hills as seen from the open-air restaurant

In the Reception Hall

Another view of the resort

In the Activities Room

In the balcony of our room

South Indian dishes at the resort restaurant

One evening we witnessed a strange phenomenon from our balcony.  A forest fire appeared suddenly in a corner of the hillside and it kept crawling up, up and then down non-stop leaving behind a long craggy trail of low flames.  Thick smoke curled up into the sky.  We photographed it for whatever it was worth.  After about four hours it subsided on its own.   Later reports said that several forest fires raged at different places in Uttarkhand giving anxious moments to the authorities. 

The trail of the forest fire on the hillside -- a view from our balcony.
Notice its uncanny resemblance to the map of peninsular India 

Tour operators have several plans to take visitors to different places of interest.   Under one such, the tourists drive further up on the hills early in the morning, when the beauty of the nature unfolds in all its pristine glory.  The ghat road is fine and the views of the valleys come alive magnificently.   On the way, at the Naini Lake View Point tourists can see the bluish lake in its awesome entirety surrounded by greenery.   This is a unique opportunity for taking photos and videos.  Still up the ghat road, there is the Himalayan View Point, where the world’s highest mountain range becomes visible, if the sky is clear.   Men with long telescopes offer to show the peaks for a fee.  

The Naini lake in its gorgeous entirety

Himalayan View Point (the range is not visible in the picture due to fog)

Shortly before arriving at these points, one can see on the hillside a large number of neatly packed houses glistening in the sun.  At the top there appears a building with a red roof and it is Sherwood College, where India’s ace film actor Amitabh Bachan and many other celebrities studied.  

Sherwood College (topmost building)

A high altitude zoo, an eco garden with caves and the Tibetan market are among other places where tourists are taken on this circuit.  

Eco Garden and Caves

Tibetan Market

Nainital has one of the 64 Shakti Peets in India, revered places of worship for Hindus.  According to legend, Sati, wife of Shiva, felt insulted when her father King Daksha refused to invite the two to a yagna he was conducting.   Furious, she set herself afire through intense meditation in an act of sacrifice.   As devastated Shiva carried her body, its parts fell at different places on earth.  Temples raised at these spots came to be known as Shakti Peets.   In Nainital, on the northern bank of the lake where Sati’s eyes fell, a temple was built.  Nayana or naina in Sanskrit and Hindi means eyes, and so it came to be known as Naina Devi temple. 

Naina Devi temple entrance

At the entrance of the temple

Artistic welcome arches, red towers, green plants and well-paved open spaces make the Naina Devi temple scenic.   Inside there are three deities -- Kali Devi, Naina Devi and Ganesha.  Naina Devi is represented by two eyes.   It is said that the present temple is a replacement for the original 15^th century one built during the reign of Kushans but got destroyed in a landslide in 1880.  There is also a small shrine for Shiva in the form a linga in the premises.  A view of the lake from the temple complex is awe-inspiring.  The temple draws thousands of devotees every year. 

In front of the Naina Devi shrine

Inside the temple

Shiva linga in the Naina Devi temple complex

In Nainital, apart from the main lake, there are many others located away from the town, each with a background of its own.  Tour operators vie with each other to organize visits to these places.  

Of them, we found Navkhuchiatal, about 30 kilometres from the town, picture-perfect.  The sparkling bluish water lake has nine corners, encircled by forested hills.  Water Zorbing is prominent there.  For a fee people can get into a huge transparent and secure sphere and roll on water.  Boating too is practiced.  Trekking and paragliding are other activities noticeable in the vicinity. 

At Navkhuchial lake.  Zorbing spheres in the background

Sattal, 45 kilometres from Nainital, is a system of seven inter-connected lakes surrounded by tall oak and pine trees.  Its environment is said to be a paradise for bird watchers and adventure enthusiasts.  These waters are greenish.  The seven lakes are Ramtal, Lakshmantal, Sitatal, Hanumantal, Bharattal,  Naldamyatital and Garudtal.   

One of the several lakes in Nainital

Institute of Graphic Arts

Bhimtal is another prominent lake at a distance of 22 kms from Nainital.  This lake is bigger than Nainital.  An aquarium located on an island at the centre of the lake is famous among tourists.  

The Bhimtal aquarium on an island

Nearby in Tallital locality, there is a Hanuman temple built in a picturesque setting.  A magnificent 45-foot-tall statue of Hanuman and a shrine for him are the highlights here.  Atop the colourful towering statue is an umbrella – a rare depiction.  In the premises there are a few other shrines as well.  This is also a lovely place for watching sunrise and sunset in their gorgeous grandier. 

Tallital Hanuman statue 

The temple complex of the Tallital Hanuman

Yet another huge Hanuman statue at a different shrine in Nainital

Our Nainital sojourn threw up quite a few surprises.  Our intention was to escape from the scorching sun in our home city of Chennai but it was somewhat dashed.  The hill-station was pretty warm during daytime, though the nights were somewhat chilly.  We had no use for the sweaters, mufflers and monkey-caps we had taken with us.   Early in the morning we could see a blanket of smog hovering over the mountain peaks.

When we landed at Pantnagar airport, about 70 kms from Nainital, we could feel the sun bearing down on us.   During our drive to the hill-station through a jungle only dry and wilted trees were visible on both sides of the road with no trace of greenery anywhere.

Surprises of a different kind were also experienced by us – this time pleasant ones.  Delectable South Indian food was easily available at select restaurants.  An eatery called Purohit Tali on the famous Mall Road served wafer-thin delicious rava dosas with a variety of chutneys and sambar.  At the resort’s restaurant we enjoyed crispy and tasty medhu vadas.   Downhill, at Udupiwala we ordered idlies and what the waiter served puzzled us -– large, inch-thick, white rectangles.   Looking at them we wondered whether we had committed a mistake by going there.    But our apprehensions were short-lived.   They were indeed idlies, so spongy and puffy that they melted in our mouth.  We ordered more!

We had our own misgivings about the ubiquitous language problem, as we had forgotten most of whatever we had learned in our Hindi class decades ago.  But it should be acknowledged that local people were very courteous to us, whether on the road or in shops, and were willing to help.   Another noticeable aspect of life there was that vehicles followed traffic regulations scrupulously, even though there was no constable around.  This was our greatest surprise.

Undoubtedly, Nainital is a tourist’s paradise.  It is certainly a place to go and enjoy. (Ends)

***

(1,350 words)

TEENAGE FANTASIES : My story in THE CRITERION magazine

THE CRITERION, an internationally-acclaimed literary journal, has carried my short story titled "Teenage Fears and Fantasies" in its annual bumper issue just released. The publication is held in high esteem in academic circles and its contributors hail from every part of the world.  

The issue contains more than 80 articles on diverse facets of literature, including Indian, American, British, Canadian, French, Irish, African, and Turkish, comparative studies, critical theory, language and linguistics, besides poetry, fiction and book reviews. 

Here is my short story:

Teenage Fears and Fantasies 

Subbaram Danda

   Author and former journalist

Twelve-year-old  Sneha was  thrilled  to go round  the  vast  jasmine garden of her aunt.    The bushy  plants in full bloom swayed gently  in the evening  breeze.  The aroma of  the  blossoms  wafted across the field,  mildly intoxicating her.   She felt she was in a dream world. 

The garden was on the outskirts of the south Indian city of Madurai. She had arrived there only a few hours ago with her parents to spend her Navarathri holidays. Her aunt lived alone in a palatial house adjacent to the garden. Her uncle was a child specialist having a thriving practice in Dubai. Her cousins, a boy and a girl, were with their father studying in the emirate. 

In the garden, women workers were busy plucking the flowers in their bud stage. Both their hands worked in clockwork precision, deftly pulling and depositing them in baskets tied to their waists. Their job fascinated Sneha. She ran into her aunt’s house to fetch a basket so that she too could engage herself in plucking. 

The bushes were roughly of her height. “Take out only the fully-developed bulbous buds, not the thin short ones,” a worker advised her, as her tender fingers kept working. A feeling of immense satisfaction at doing something of her liking engulfed her. She could not imagine doing things like this in her home city of Chennai, which had become a concrete jungle with traffic jams, pollution and scarcities of power and water. Further, she was constantly under pressure from her parents to read school books and do little else. 

Sneha developed pain in her fingers and the plucking rate slowed down. “Don’t hurt yourself, stop for the day,” the worker shouted. Yes, it would do for now, she felt, and ran to the house with her basket. Her aunt was standing at the main doorway. “Aunty, aunty, I plucked 241 buds in half an hour,” she beamed. The woman patted her warmly on the back. Sneha’s aunt knitted the flowers into a long string and pinned it on the girl’s head to hang in two rows at the back. 

“You look gorgeous. Madurai Malli, as the locally-grown variety of jasmine is called in Tamil, imparts a unique beauty and fragrance to its wearer. It is internationally famous, though more than 200 species of it are grown all over the world in tropical regions,” her aunt waxed eloquent. The girl heard her in rapt attention. “Jasmines grow as bushes or vines. In South Asia the flowers are used in bridal decorations, religious ceremonies and temple worship. In China jasmine tea is a specialty. In Hawaii, it is the subject of many songs. It is the national flower of some countries, including Indonesia and the Philippines.” 

Her aunt had named her house “Jasmine Gem.” It was built only a few years ago out of profits earned from exporting the flowers. The particular type grown in her garden enjoyed an excellent market globally and fetched good returns. The flowers were air-lifted every night to foreign destinations in temperature-controlled reefer containers. 

The bungalow’s architectural features, colour scheme, paintings, wall hangings, furniture and upholstery were all designed on the jasmine theme. This was Sneha’s first visit there after the house was constructed. Every evening Sneha went to the garden. She immensely loved plucking the flowers. She also evinced great interest in learning the techniques of managing the farm, especially the methods of applying fertilizers to the plants, watering, tending and pruning them. 

Sneha was given a separate luxuriously-furnished room for her stay. Her parents were in a similar but bigger room. It was a totally carefree holiday that the girl had. She had no homework to do and no text books to read. Moreover, her aunt was very affectionate. Whenever time permitted, she would narrate stories to her drawn from the epics. She would take her to the market and buy her whatever she wanted. This was quite contrary to the experience she had with her own parents, who never had sufficient time to spend with her. 

Time passed very fast. One night as Sneha lay on her cosy bed, her mind raced back in time. When she entered the third standard in school, her class teacher had asked her, “What are you going to be when you grow up?” Her reply was, “A cardiologist like my mother. I will go to the US, get enlisted in a hospital and earn good money.” But this idea gradually got diluted. She would not like to spend her time with patients day in and day out. She looked for better avenues. She would become a computer engineer like her father. The reason: she could work in air-conditioned comfort. 

In reality, she was finding it difficult to get high marks in the crucial subjects of Science and Mathematics, necessary for getting admission into medicine or engineering after the school. When her aunt, who had no worthwhile educational qualification to her credit, could make good money through jasmine exports and live like a queen, why she should not emulate her, she wondered. 

Her smart phone rang. On the line was her dearest friend and classmate Ramya. The caller said, “Hi Snake, how are you? Our school is going to re-open in two days. We will get our quarterly exam marks sheet. My stomach has already started churning.” Sneha remained cool, as she did not like the topic at all. “It’s OK. No big deal. Let us not worry ourselves much right now. Any other news? Good night, bye.” 

Sneha touched the FaceBook icon on her smart phone. After logging in, she looked into the ‘feed page.’ A quotation posted by an acquaintance stared at her -- “Happiness is doing what you really want.” How true! She loved the idea but it was a far cry in her case. Her parents would not allow her to have a say in anything.  A few flips and another post hit her on the face. “Happiness is being yourself, in a world that is constantly trying to change you.” She cried, “Sure, sure.” She closed her eyes for a few moments and then logged out of the network. She dragged a velvet-covered soft pillow lying near her feet and hugged it tightly. Soon she fell asleep. 

The next day, Sneha and her parents left for Chennai. Before leaving, the girl embraced her aunt and kissed her passionately. “I miss you, aunty,” she said softly with tears in her eyes. 

In Chennai one night Sneha’s mother had a feverish discussion with her husband about the girl. “She is not showing much interest in studies. Her performance has been deteriorating day by day. She appears to be an odd girl out in our relatives circle. We should not allow her to continue like this. We will also cut a sorry figure in our neighbourhood, where girls are aiming at scoring high marks to be able to get into medicine or information technology.” 

Sneha’s father listened to her carefully and agreed with her. The two decided to approach a psychologist and seek a solution. A few days later Sneha’s mother took her to a psychologist. She was a specialist in problems of the teenagers and had several research papers to her credit. 

Sneha’s mother narrated to her the girls’ tapering interest in studies and sought a way out. The psychologist had a fairly long one-on-one session with Sneha and later a separate discussion with her mother. She also conducted a few tests on the girl. 

Finally she told them, “Teenage psychology is complex. Hormones play havoc on their psyche. Research confirms that the road to independent adulthood is a bumpy one with plenty of struggles on the way. Several external factors shape the mentality of a teenager, besides genetics. The activities of relatives and close friends cast a strong influence on the person. More often they are pushed to the limits of their endurance. Parents should keep a cool head, try to understand their changing needs and see if they are reasonable.” 

She continued, “In the case of Sneha, conventional studies do not appear to hold any promise for her future. Her eager involvement in floriculture activities when she had a holiday at her aunt’s place is a clear pointer. She derives satisfaction from working with the nature.” 

The psychologist finally gave her advice, “Forget medicine or computers for Sneha. At college, let her do an agriculture-related course. Bring her up keeping this in mind.” The suggestion appealed to the youngster. Instantly she jumped in her seat but sat down quickly. 

 On returning home, her mother had a talk with her husband and finally told the girl, “Relax dear. You don’t have to do medicine or computers. We will not insist. Somehow complete standard XII. We will be happy if you just get pass marks. Then we will manage to put you in B.Sc. (Horticulture).” The girl liked the idea. Soon her behaviour underwent a dramatic change. She volunteered to take private tuitions to cross the school barrier.

That summer Sneha and her parents went on a tour of Europe. The world-famous monuments like the Leaning Tower of Pisa or the Eiffel Tower did not excite her. Nor did a thundering ride in the super fast train Eurostar under the English Channel between London and Paris appeal to her. But when they visited the annual flower show at the Keukenhof gardens in South Holland she felt overwhelmed. 

The wide variety of tulip flowers grown there, besides daffodils and other spring types, mesmerized her. She was enchanted by the flamboyant riot of colours displayed by the tulips. The blossoms glowed brilliantly in fiery scarlet and pure white, golden yellow and hazy brown, bright violet and suave pink, and several other hues. There were near black tulips as well. 

At the garden office she made enquiries about its history and growth. She learnt that the Keukenhof garden, covering an area of 80 acres, was the result of team work of floriculture experts, landscape artists, computer engineers and management specialists, all functioning in tandem. She fantasized creating and managing a similar garden in India, featuring the famous Madurai Malli. 

The wheel of time rolled by fast. As planned, she completed her school, entered the college and earned a masters degree in horticulture with specialization in floriculture. Subsequently she also did management studies. Interestingly, she obtained high grades in all these subjects. 

Sneha’s parents purchased for her a large jasmine farm near her aunt’s place. It was developed into a beautiful garden with well-tended lawns and neatly-laid walk-ways. Several bushes were cut to resemble animals, including some extinct ones. Replicas of world-famous statues installed at strategic points added a touch of romance to the landscape. Benches under a canopy were placed at important intersections for the visitors to sit and relax. A research unit with experts drawn from different specialities and a museum to highlight the history and growth of jasmines in India also came up. 

As preparations for the inauguration of the venture got under way, her earlier days kept reflecting in her mind. She personally supervised all the arrangements. She was going to have her day! She was excited. 

The opening ceremony was a grand affair. Sneha’s aunt, who inspired her, was requested to cut the ribbon. At the end, the invitees were taken round the garden. On a small artificial island at a central point, surrounded by water fountains, stood a tall granite slab in the shape of a jasmine bud. A message inscribed on it attracted everyone’s attention. It read, “Understand your children. Help them realize their grand dreams. This is one such.” 

Sneha was delighted. It was the best day in her life. She felt she had succeeded not only in realizing her long-cherished dream but also in sending a powerful message to parents. 

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