OUR DAY OUT AT MEHRANGARH FORT

THE JEWEL OF JODHPUR

(By Subbaram Danda)

In front of the Citadel of the Sun

With high expectations we headed for the mighty fort of Mehrangarh in Jodhpur, driving on the narrow and bustling streets of the city.  Former US first lady Jacqueline Kennedy had described it as the eighth wonder of the world.  Noted English writer and Nobel Laureate for literature Rudyard Kipling had called it “the work of the giants” having been overwhelmed by its “colossal proportions.”  These comments had naturally aroused great curiosity in us.

The fort occupied a place of pride in our itinerary for Jodhpur, which was in the first leg of our Rajasthan tour from May 17 to 24, 2015.  The other places we -- my wife and I -- visited were Ranakpur, famous for its all-marble Jain temple, and Udaipur, well known for its romantic lakes and palaces.

As we moved on and accelerated up a hill, all of a sudden the fort shot into our view, literally stunning us.  It glowed majestically in the late morning sun.   Our first reaction was, “Wow, it is here, right in front of us. What a grand structure!”  After some more minutes of driving, we were at its entrance. 

Jodhpur, the Blue City, as seen from the ramparts of the fort

The foundation stone for the fort was laid in 1459 AD by Rao Jodha, a famous king of the former princely state of Marwar.  He belonged to the Rathore clan of Rajputs, who were believed to be descendants of Mehr – the Sun.   Rao Jodha named the fort Mehrangarh – the Citadel of the Sun.  On its completion, he shifted the capital of Marwar from the nearby town of Mandore to the fort. 

The statistics of the fort are formidable.   It stands on a rocky hill about 400 feet above the surrounding plains, overlooking the city.  In some places its walls rise to a height of 120 feet (as tall as a modern 12-storey building) and are 70 feet thick.   It has seven imposing gates.  The fort was expanded by successive rulers over 500 years.  

Besides being a mighty defensive structure, the fort served many purposes.  It was the seat of official administration.  The king lived in palaces inside with his family and close relatives.  It was the centre of royal patronage for music, dance, painting, literature, martial arts and weapon-making.  A few temples also came up in it.   Now a large part of the fort has been converted into a museum.  

Higher floors of the fort

After security checks and buying tickets for entry into the fort and for using our still and video cameras, our trek began.  We also engaged an official guide.  He took us in an elevator, a thoughtful senior citizen friendly addition of recent times, straight to the top floor.   A row of cannons on the ramparts beckoned us.  They are said to be among the rarest in India. From there we could see the city below with closely packed blue houses, from which Jodhpur acquired the name of Blue City.   

Cannons on the ramparts of the fort

Then on, our journey was through labyrinthine walkways, down steep staircases, past several palaces, through numerous galleries and across many courtyards.  It was an exhilarating exercise.  We heard our guide narrate stories of what kings of various generations did, their styles of ruling, their pastimes and their intrigues.  

A palace overlooking an open courtyard

The star attraction in the fort is undoubtedly its palaces.  They are named either on the basis of their interior décor or in terms of their function.  Important among them are Sheesh Mahal (Mansion of Mirrors), Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace), Jhanki Mahal (Peep Mansion) and Takhat Vilas (Mansion of Maharaja Takhat Singh).

They were built or extensively renovated by different kings at different times.  Every ruler left his mark on them.  Mughal influence could be seen on the architecture of the palaces, as the Marwar kings maintained good relations with those emperors, though there had been skirmishes now and then. 

     

We liked the Sheesh Mahal most for its exotic mirror work.  What was noticeable was that large pieces of glass had been affixed on the walls and the ceiling instead of a mosaic of tiny fragments.  Another feature was superimposition of brightly painted religious figures over the mirrors.  It was essentially a “private temple”. 

The Sheesh Mahal

The Phool Mahal (Palace of Flowers) is regarded by some as the grandest of all the “period rooms” in the fort.  It was a private and exclusive chamber of pleasure, where music, dance and other performances took place.  Its ceiling glistened in rich gold filigree.  The Phool Mahal was created by Maharaja Abhay Singh and the gold for it came from Ahmedabad in Gujarat as war booty after his famous victory over the rebellious Mughal governor, Sarbuland Khan.  

The Phool Mahal

The Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) built by Raja Sur Singh is the largest of all the mahals.  It was used as an exclusive Durbar Hall, a hall of private audience accessible only to those very close to the ruler.  The wooden ceiling is rich in gold leaf and mirror work.  Windows and door panels were made of coloured glass.  Pearls were not in evidence in this palace! 

The Moti Mahal

The Jhanki Mahal (Peep Mansion) originally served as a place from where royal ladies could peep into the courtyard below and watch official proceedings there.  Today it houses a collection of royal cradles.  They shine in gold leaf and mirror work.   Figures of fairies, elephants and birds were lavishly incorporated in their making.   

The Jhanki Mahal

The Takhat Vilas was built and lived in by Maharaja Takhat Singh, Jodhpur’s last ruler to reside in the fort.  It was a blend of traditional and British styles.  The floor is painted like a carpet.  A cloth fan (punkah) hanging from the ceiling and drawn by servants with ropes provided breeze to the occupants. The glass spheres on the ceiling were of British origin. 

The Takhat Vilas

A major attraction in the fort is an all-marble coronation seat displayed in a court yard.  It looks simple but elegant.   Every ruler since Rao Jodha had his coronation here.  No visitor fails to take a photo of it. 

The coronation seat in marble

We were astounded by the wide variety of ancient memorabilia housed in numerous galleries – arms, palanquins, howdas (seats for use on elephants), paintings, musical instruments, costumes and furniture.   Each had its own specialty.

Of great interest was the armory section, which has the personal swords of many kings.  The sword-hilts embellished in jade, silver, ivory and rhino horn attracted everyone’s attention.  There were shields studded with rubies, emeralds and pearls.  A show case contained the sword of Mughal emperor Akbar the Great (the lower one in the picture).  It is not clear how it came into the possession of the fort museum.  

The sword of Mughal Emperor Akbar (the lower one) 

An ornate, gilded and domed palanquin called Mahadol , placed in the centre of a hall, was  another item over which our guide waxed  eloquent.  It was acquired by Maharaja Abhay Singh after a successful battle with Gujarat.  It needed a team of 12 men to carry it.  

A domed palanquin

On show were objects that had been imaginatively created.   There was a bronze cannon sculpted like a mythical animal with the face of an alligator and the body of a wild boar. What purpose it served was anybody’s guess.  

A cannon with the face of an alligator

The paintings section provided a rare insight into the lifestyles of the rulers.  Undeniably they patronized this fine art very well.  One painting depicted Maharaja Man Singh playing polo – with royal women!  It was amazing to learn that in those days womenfolk took an active part in sports and that too in exotic games like polo.  

A painting of a Marwar king playing polo with royal women

A temple for Chamunda Devi, the family deity of Marwar kings, could be seen on the far end of the fort.  It remains a very popular Hindu shrine.  A large number of devotees visit it even now especially during the festival time of Navaratri.

The fort has a heart-rending exhibit.  It makes every visitor go through a moment of poignancy.  On a stone wall near the main gate, one could see carved on it many palm prints of royal ladies, who had thrown themselves into the burning pyre of their deceased husbands -- a practice called Sati.  Before the gruesome act, in a ritual, the ladies had to leave prints of their right palm on the wall, which were later etched on it permanently.   

Palm prints of royal ladies before they committed 'Sati'

Undoubtedly the Mehrangarh fort is a treasure trove for history buffs, archaeology enthusiasts and travel lovers.  The memory of our visit to the fort will certainly linger long in our minds.  

April 04, 2015

"THE CRITERION" PUBLISHES MY SHORT STORY

My short story "Dreams, Fears and Secrets" has been carried in the 6th Bumper Anniversary Issue of THE CRITERION, an online bi-monthly international journal in English, just released.  The story is woven around the ambitions and apprehensions of two sisters and how they manage to conquer them.  THE CRITERION is a highly acclaimed journal, which carries a variety of research papers and scholarly articles, besides poetry, fiction and book reviews.

Dreams, Fears and Secrets

Subbaram Danda

It was springtime.  The mellow rays of the morning sun played hide and seek with clusters of white clouds in the blue sky.  The distant rolling mountains radiated a magical charm.  The chirping of the birds on nearby trees was rhythmic. There was romance in the air.

This scenery would have delighted anyone but not Ramya.   The 25-year-old woman was inspecting the paddy crop she and her husband had raised in their two-acre field in a village near the South Indian city of Thanjavur.  She was not happy with their farm operations, as the returns they got were just enough to make their both ends meet.  She had a mother-in-law and a one-year-old boy to look after.  Besides the farm land, a small tiled house was all they possessed.  She was a middle-school drop-out.

Ramya was ambitious.  She longed to live in a palatial building with an elegantly-tended garden.  Her lifestyle should be the envy of everyone around.  She looked forward to doing something novel and ground-breaking to realize her dreams.

She kept a watchful eye on the people in her village.  She noticed that some of her neighbours had overnight become rich.  What was their secret?  Like them, she would also like to strike gold. 

Ramya’s elder sister Preeti was lucky.  She was ravishingly beautiful.   Captivated by her looks, a rich businessman’s son had married her.   A chartered accountant, he was a partner in a leading auditors firm, which had offices in all major business centres of the world.  He headed the Dubai unit and took her there with him.

They lived in a swanky residential suite in Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building at 2,723 feet.   Preeti’s letters and photographs of her lavish lifestyle added fuel to the fire of Ramya’s aspirations.   When she invited Ramya to spend a week with her and arranged for her travel documents and tickets, her joy knew no bounds.

For the first time in her life Ramya boarded a plane.   From Dubai airport she was driven to her sister’s home in a six-door limousine.   En route the sight of innumerable skyscrapers in incredible shapes made her feel she was in a world of fantasy.

She spent a full day savouring the delights of Burj Khalifa.  Its 160-plus storeys, extensive architectural embellishments, classy shops, posh restaurants and azure swimming pools amazed her.  The high-speed elevators of the tower were themselves marvellous.  As she entered one and moved up whisper-free, its floor-to-ceiling glass walls all around enabled her to take an awesome view of the city’s landmarks, the desert and the sea.   At the observation deck at level 124 she walked along its entire perimeter and felt she was on top of the world. The dancing fountains in pools below around the tower sent her excitement soaring.

Preeti and Ramya spent the next few days sight-seeing.  Burj Al Arab, the super luxury hotel with its unique sail-boat architecture, was picturesque.   Shopping at the “City Centre” mall, Gold and Spice Souks was a memorable experience.   The night cruise on the Dubai Creek, a major salt water channel that divides the city, in an ornately-crafted sturdy Arab boat with dinner thrown in, proved a fantasy trip.  The “Desert Safari,” a roller-coaster drive in a four-wheel land cruiser up and down steep sand dunes, was spine-chilling.  

On return to her village, Ramya became doubly determined that she should do something to re-write her own fate.  She wanted to uncover the secret behind the riches of her neighbours, but they would not oblige her.  She turned to her close friend Leela living a kilometre away, who had also minted money within a few years.   

One evening Ramya walked to Leela’s house, an architect-designed compact but elegant bungalow.  After sipping tea in a gold cup Ramya broached the subject.   Her friend was helpful.   “It is all simple.  But you should have grit, determination, patience and confidence.”  Moving closer to her, she whispered a lot in her ear.   Ramya was flabbergasted.  Regaining her composure she exclaimed, “Fantastic.  It looks like a modern mantra to roll in riches.   I will also do it.” 

A few days later Ramya told her husband:  “I intend to go to Delhi on a lucrative job, suggested by my friend Leela, who has recently become affluent.   Let mother-in-law take care of our child till I come back.”

The man was aghast.  She did not disclose to him her actual plans.   She just told him, “I will let you know everything once I settle down there.  I seek your co-operation. No questions right now, please.”   The next day Ramya left for Delhi carrying a letter from Leela.

In Dubai, Preeti and her husband led a happy life, each caring immensely for the other.  Every now and then they went on a holiday.  Preeti could not have asked for more. 

However, one problem tormented them.  Though they got married several years ago, they were childless.  They consulted a leading lady doctor of Indian origin specializing in fertility issues.   Tests and scans disclosed no physical abnormality in either of them.   She referred Preeti to a psychiatrist.   After some attitudinal tests, he subjected her to psychoanalysis.  During the session, when he was making a suggestion, she screamed, “Oh, no, I don’t want to conceive.  I hate getting pregnant.  I am mortally scared of carrying and the process of delivery.  That is why I have been skilfully avoiding the advances of my husband during those few vital days in a month.  I love him alright.”    

The psychiatrist’s report provided details of Preeti’s confessional outbursts on her attitude towards pregnancy.  It shocked her husband.  “How can she do it to me?  This is betrayal of the first order,” he lamented within himself.  But heroically he kept his cool. 

The two sought the lady doctor’s advice.  She told them, “You don’t have to despair.  You can have a baby biologically born to you two. Preeti does not have to conceive.  The baby will be carried and delivered by another woman called a surrogate.  It is a sort of outsourcing pregnancy.”  It was an incredibly mystifying piece of news for Preeti and her husband. 

The doctor explained, “This is one of the miracles of modern medicine.  Surrogate pregnancy can be brought about in several ways for different reasons.  The first surrogate birth, a baby girl, was reported in the United States in 1986.  Since then thousands of similar births have taken place globally.  In India the first one was in 1994.   In recent years the country has witnessed rapid progress in this field and is now the most sought-after destination for couples worldwide looking for this procedure. Anand, a town in Gujarat, has acquired the reputation of being the surrogate capital of the world.”

She, however, warned them:  “One should be very careful in choosing a clinic for the purpose.  Bogus advertisements and touts are aplenty.  There have been dreadful failures and untoward developments. If you are interested, I can refer you to a renowned hospital in Mumbai, where the doctors and the staff are really capable and truly devoted.  Without hassles, you will have your own sweet baby literally delivered to you.   But be prepared.  It is expensive, though significantly cheaper than elsewhere in the world.”

The doctor’s advice appeared refreshingly different and temptingly promising.  Preeti jumped at the idea. 

Soon the husband and wife visited the Mumbai hospital recommended to them.  A senior doctor, after going through their medical reports and subjecting them to new tests, told them:  “In your case it is going to be what we call gestational surrogacy.  Under this procedure, sperms of the husband will be fused in-vitro (in the lab) with the eggs extracted from the wife.   When a fertilized egg becomes an embryo, it will be placed in the womb of a surrogate, who has already been screened and prepared for the purpose.  She will go through the full course of pregnancy.”

The doctor explained further:  “The surrogate mother will stay in our residential complex for better monitoring.  She will get necessary food and medicines, including vitamins and nourishing supplements.  Her own children can stay with her and her husband can also visit her periodically.  She will sign an agreement that after the delivery, she will hand over the baby to the biological parents.”

The Mumbai doctor went on:  “We have on our register about 100 would-be surrogates, all medically and psychologically screened.   You can meet and choose any one of them.   If you agree, we can also suggest the best woman suited to you.”

The doctor took them round the hospital and showed them the various state-of-the-art facilities there.  They also had an opportunity to talk to a few surrogate mothers waiting to deliver babies in the next few days. 

Preeti and her husband opted for the most expensive package of Rs.15 lakhs, which would cover all expenses.   Half of it would go to the surrogate mother.  They left to the doctor the choice of selecting the most suitable surrogate.  She could belong to any religion or caste.  Even after the delivery, they would take care of her interests.   Money was no constraint for them.  They would meet her at the time of taking delivery of the baby.   Preeti’s husband was particular that the matter be kept a closely-guarded secret, as he did not want to expose his wife’s eccentric reservations on pregnancy at least for a while. 

They stayed in the hospital only for the days of the procedure involving them and then rushed back to Dubai. When they received reports that the entire implantation process went off well and the surrogate mother was making good progress they felt jubilant.  They sent expensive clothes, sweets, flowers and other gifts to her.  

Two days before the projected delivery date, Preeti and her husband arrived in Mumbai.  Early in the morning on the predicted day, they received a call that a baby girl was born to them.   “The infant is very healthy, cute and charming.  The mother is also doing well.   She is waiting to meet you both.”  They felt they were in heaven.

The two rushed to the hospital.  The Resident Medical Officer led them to the room where the surrogate and the baby were resting.   It looked like a suite in a five-star hotel.  They entered the inner enclosure and what they saw there stunned them.   The surrogate mother was none other than Ramya!  She was also shocked.

For a few moments they kept looking at each other in utter disbelief.  Then smiles lit up their faces.  Ramya lifted and kissed the baby a couple times, as tears swelled in her eyes, and handed it over to her sister.  The little one appeared to smile oblivious of the mysterious ways of the world around.  

The next day Ramya disclosed to her sister what all happened.  “In my anxiety to become rich at any cost at the earliest, I applied to this hospital’s branch in Delhi to be a surrogate mother.  After extensive tests they accepted me.  They also called my husband and got his consent. I stayed in the capital city waiting for my turn.  Within a fortnight the chief doctor asked me whether I would be interested in moving to Mumbai for a surrogate pregnancy.  I was their choice because medically I met all their requirements.  I accepted the offer as the terms were very attractive.  Immediately I shifted here, though my own child remained in the village.  My experience here has been very pleasant.”

Soon, at the invitation of Preeti and her husband, Ramya and all members of her family relocated to Dubai.  One day, while fondling the baby, Ramya crooned, “I am very lucky.  My dream has come true sooner than expected.”  The baby smiled back as if refuting her claim.  The little beauty appeared to convey, “I am the luckiest. I am enjoying the care and love of two mothers!” 

(Ends) 

WRITER'S E-ZINE CARRIES MY PHOTO-FEATURE

A photo-feature of mine titled "Cacti, Parks and Shrines" has been carried in WRITER'S E-ZINE, an online monthly magazine, in its February 2015 issue just released.  It is based on our visit to Kalimpong, a hill-station of West Bengal.

Cacti, Parks and Shrines

By Subbaram Danda

As we drove down the ghat road, negotiating tricky turns and hair-pin bends, beautiful scenery unfolded on both sides of the road. Plunging gorges, tall pine trees, sprawling tea estates and occasional streams were a marvellous sight to behold.

It was a nippy morning and we were heading for Kalimpong, a hill-station in West Bengal at a distance of about two and a half hours drive from Darjeeling, where we had gone on a short sojourn. We had heard a lot about Kalimpong from friends. Its cool climate, exotic nurseries, leisure parks, museums and shrines join together to make it a great destination for holiday-lovers. Paragliding is another activity that has become very popular there. 

Confluence of two rivers

Shortly before reaching Kalimpong we stopped at a place from where we could view at a distance the meeting point of two rivers -- the Teesta and its tributary the Rangit. The two rivers originate in the Himalayan glaciers. It was a lovely sight, which no visitor should miss. The local people call it a “Lovers Link.” It was an excellent opportunity to click nice photos. A hot cup of tea and a packet of spicy potato chips from a stall there provided the much-needed refreshment in the breezy chill environment. 

Thorny Beauties

Kalimpong is also known as the “City of Flowers” popular for its rare orchids, exotic blossoms and uncommon cacti. It is also an established exporter of several select varieties. Our first halt in the hill-station was at a private cactus and flower nursery. With a ticket to see it, we entered the place with our own reservations but were astounded by what we found. Cactus types of the size of a pumpkin each with ribs of thorns all over its surface and big yellow or pink flowers at the top were indeed a sight to behold. They were nurtured and grown with all care in transparent tents. Thin tall cactus varieties could be seen standing upto a height of about eight feet. Among the wide assortment of flowers, we could identify the eye-catching lilies, roses and bulbs.

For recreation and para-gliding

The highest point of Kalimpong is called Deolo Hill, from where one can have an unhindered 360-degree panoramic view of the city. A beautifully landscaped garden has come up at the top to serve as a recreational arena with well-paved undulating pathways and a variety of flower beds and neatly-trimmed plants. Several resting areas with benches under canopies have been provided at different points in the park. A tourist lodge is also located in one corner. Pony rides and zorbing ball play (a huge transparent sphere for children to get in and spin) are available there. The hill is also a well-patronized hub for paragliding activities. We could see several gliders hovering over there in colourful chutes and landing. We spent more than an hour walking round the place in the pleasant mid-day weather. People who like walking will love it but others are advised to stay put near the gate. 

Miracles of science

The next attraction we went to was the Kalimpong Science Centre at a short distance from the Deolo Hill. Set up in 2008, it showcases through exhibits the intricacies of scientific phenomena in simple terms to popularize them among students and the general public. All branches of science find an expression there. Children will certainly love the displays. The one item we enjoyed most was the “Miracle of Mirrors.” A person standing behind a set of mirrors appears to onlookers as only a bust! There is also an out-door science park. Among its multifarious activities is one that facilitates formation of science clubs in educational institutions and elsewhere. One cannot miss a long row of busts of renowned scientists in the lawn in front of the main in-door block. 

Hanuman shrine

Our next stop was at an open-air Hanuman shrine, where the Lord’s towering statue stands on a hillock approachable by a long stairway. The image is in reddish vermilion colour with a glittering crown on the head and a triangular cloth flag of saffron colour fluttering. We did not go up but could see the image from the entrance point on the roadside. 

Buddha statue

Nearby there is a large colourful statue of Buddha on a raised open terrain. Climbing a flight of steps we found ourselves in front of the image. There was no one in the vicinity. We spent just a few minutes seeing the statue and taking photographs. 

It was afternoon and it threatened to rain. We decided to head back to Darjeeling. After lunch at a local restaurant we began our return journey. We reached our resort before dusk. Though somewhat hectic, it was a worthwhile and enjoyable one-day excursion. 

About Subbaram Danda: 

Subbaram Danda is an author and a former journalist.  Two of his books Marvels Very Majestic and The Rustles of Pleasure have been listed at Amazon.in and Flipkart.com.  He was Chief of News Bureau of a multi-edition business daily and later Media Relations Chief at a foreign diplomatic mission. His contributions have appeared in The Financial Express, The Hindu Business Line, Industrial Economist, Newsman, Merinews, QPeka and SPARK. He has travelled extensively. Photography is his cherished hobby.

MY TRAVELOGUE IN "SPARK"

Reproduced below is my article “It Gets a Million Wows a Year” that has been carried in the special fifth anniversary issue (January 2015) of SPARK, an online literary monthly magazine, just released.  It is a travelogue on our visit to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Italy’s iconic monument, highlighting several little known facts about it.  SPARK is a well-patronized site, receiving lakhs of hits every year from readers all over the world.   

It Gets a Million ‘Wows’ a Year

By Subbaram Danda

Visiting the Leaning Tower of Pisa was more than a tourist’s delight; it leads one to think about science and the times we live in, writes Subbaram Danda, under the theme ‘Travel’.

We could not believe what our tour guide was saying.  “The Leaning Tower of Pisa was never intended to be a tilted tower.”  With a wry smile, he added, “Ironically, it is this tilt that has brought name and fame to it – and enormous revenue too, from tourism.”

My wife and I were visiting the famous monument as part of a group touring Europe.  It was a prominent item on our itinerary.  The English-speaking Italian guide was briefing us on it, as our bus approached its precincts.  “In fact, it was planned to be a vertically erect eight-storey bell-tower in a cathedral complex.  About 850 years ago, when work on it began in all earnestness, everything looked fine.  But as the third level was reached, the building began to sink and gradually tilted.  It was the result of improper foundation in soft soil, it was realized later.”

Our curiosity grew further.  One in our group asked, “Could not corrective steps be taken?”  The guide explained, “They did periodically stop work to allow the soil to stabilize naturally, but that did not help much. Subsequently, various other measures were put in place and simultaneously construction too progressed, though by fits and starts.  But they only helped in containing the tilt at a reasonable angle.  The tower could not be turned fully vertical. Ultimately, it remained a Leaning Tower of Pisa.”

Pisa is a city in the Tuscany region of Central Italy.   In the 12th century, its residents were very affluent and they desired to showcase to the world the city’s prominence.  Mobilizing funds, they decided to build a Cathedral Square called Piazza del Duomo with four buildings: a cathedral, a baptistery (where baptism, the formal ceremonious initiation into Christian faith, takes place), a bell tower and a cemetery.

We got off the bus and walked past a long row of shops cluttered with mementoes and curios, warding off pestering salesmen on the way, and reached an arch of welcome leading to the Piazza.   As we entered it, the four buildings in muted white came to sight standing majestically on a vast carpet of emerald green lawn against a blue sky.  Of course, the cynosure of all eyes was the Leaning Tower of Pisa located at the far end.   We made a beeline to it.

Wow, the tower looked stunning.  We were seeing it for the first time.  The slant was clearly perceptible.  The exterior of the eight-storey cylindrical structure in marble, rising to a height of 185 feet, had arches all over.  They were supported by more than 200 columns with intricately decorated capitals.  The upper-most floor housed seven huge bells.  Regarded as the “crowning glory” of the Piazza, the tower was undoubtedly an architectural marvel, though by accident.

Inside, there was a spiral staircase with 293 steps.  As we moved in and climbed up and up in a near claustrophobic atmosphere, a scary feeling engulfed us, created by the inclined walls and the slanting steps.  For the weak and the weary, there were outlets at frequent intervals to move out of the steps area and relax for a while.  At the end, when we reached the highest floor, the exercise proved worthwhile.  It was exhilarating to take a 360-degree panoramic view of the city, walking along a circular corridor. Our experience was unique – we were strolling on the tilted roof of a world-famous tower!

One could go near the bells and take a close look.   The seven bells had been designed to produce the seven musical notes.  They were all big and heavy.  Each one had its own name.   The largest, called l’Assunta, had a bas-relief representing “the Ascent of Virgin Mary.”  It weighed three-and-a-half tons!  For a long time the bells were swung with the help of ropes.  But in 1930s the practice was discontinued in a bid to maintain the stability of the building.  Instead, clappers of the bells were actuated by electromagnets.  This system continues to this day.

The tower is credited with some major historical events. We were told that Galileo Galilei, Father of Modern Physics, conducted experiments on gravity from the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.  In the late sixteenth century, the Italian physicist and astronomer climbed to the top floor and dropped two spheres of distinctly different weights.  They fell to the ground at the same time, watched by a number of people.  He thereby demonstrated that the duration of their descent was not dependent on their mass, thus refuting the view of Aristotle and creating a new chapter in Physics.

During World War II the Nazis of Germany used the tower as an observation post.  The allied forces toyed with the idea of shooting it down.  But they decided against it, overcome by its majestic appeal.   It was thus saved from destruction.

What we noticed was that not many visitors showed interest in visiting the other edifices in the Piazza. The façade of the Cathedral of Santa Maria, with grey and white marble columns and arches was, of course, less attractive. However, the pulpit, sculptures and paintings inside are admirable things of lasting beauty.

The Baptistery with its own dome portraying many intricate masonry decorations offered an “audio-treat” to the visitors.  When we were in, a guard let out a high-pitched musical note at a point inside and in a moment it reverberated melodiously and lasted a while.

The cemetery was an elongated and cloistered burial ground with earth reportedly brought from Golgotha, the hill where Jesus was crucified.  It also had a large collection of ancient Roman stone coffins and splendid medieval frescoes.

About a million people visit the Piazza del Duomo every year, with the summer months witnessing major crowds.   In 1987, the Piazza was declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

On our way back, the guide resumed his talk on the tower. “From the beginning, the slant has been a source of unmitigated worry for the engineers and other specialists, who had to be constantly on the alert.  Off and on it was closed for visitors. In recent times too, measures were taken to arrest any fresh tilt. Finally in May 2008 it was declared that the tower has stabilized itself and would not lean any further.  It would remain so for at least another 200 years.  Currently it stands at an inclination of 3.99 degrees from the vertical.”

Suddenly the guide became emotional.  “A few times in its long history, the Leaning Tower of Pisa came painfully close to toppling, throwing up anxious moments. But it never tumbled.”

He added with an air of pride:  “The tower is a living miracle.  No wonder, the Piazza del Duomo has come to be known as the Piazza dei Miracoli, the Square of Miracles!”

As we headed back, many thoughts crossed my mind.  Why has the modern technology failed to straighten up the tower? On the other hand, why has it not completely fallen over?  Is the tilt an act of destiny, as some believe?  Is it not strange that it survived the onslaught of World War II?  There can be no totally convincing answers. But one thing is clear – tourists will cherish its memories.  We were satisfied that we saw a real wonder.

Italy has several symbols of identification like gladiators, gondolas and pizza. But the Leaning Tower of Pisa is certainly the most iconic.

Subbaram Danda is an author and a former journalist.  Two of his books in print format — “Marvels Very Majestic” and “The Rustles of Pleasure” are available at Amazon.in and Flipkart.com.  He was Chief of News Bureau of a multi-edition business daily and later Media Relations Chief of a foreign diplomatic mission. He has travelled extensively.  Photography is his cherished hobby.