The splendour of the sculptures of the 1,000-year-old Khajuraho
group of temples in Madhya Pradesh attracts a large number of tourists from all
over the world right through the year. These creations in stone celebrate human
life and emotions in all their myriad forms and in shocking styles. They are unparalleled in the history of world
art and architecture. For me it was a
refreshing revisit last month. For my
wife it was her first trip.
PASSIONS CREATED IN STONE
(By Subbaram Danda)
As we entered the vast temple area, we could see ahead
of us neatly mowed lawns, well trimmed hedges, blooming flower plants and the
towers of a few temples. It was a delightful
sight. Originally, there were as many as
85 temples in three clusters but only 22 of them have survived the ravages of
time and human intolerance. Nowhere in the world can one see so many temples grouped
together at a stone’s throw from each other as in this complex. Most of them are dedicated to the gods of the
Hindu pantheon and a few to the Jain faith
.
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| At the entrance to the Khajuraho group of temples |
The name Khajuraho is derived from the Sanskrit word
‘kharjur’ meaning date palms, which are abundant in the area. The temples were
built by kings of the Chandela dynasty between 950 AD and 1050 AD, when their
reign was at its peak.
The origin of the Chandela dynasty is steeped in
mystery. According to a legend, a young
widow of ravishing beauty was swimming in a pond on a full moon night when her
charms attracted the Moon god. He
descended to earth and paired with her. To
atone for his act, he granted her a boon.
Accordingly, a son of great valour was born to her, who was named
Chandravarman after the Moon god. In
course of time he became a king and established the Chandela dynasty. As desired by his mother, he took up
construction of temples. An emblem, crafted
in stone, where a warrior takes a lion head on, had been the royal symbol of the
dynasty, reflecting the bravery of the Chandela kings. This emblem can be seen at several spots in
the temple complex.
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| The emblem of the Chandela kings |
Each temple at Khajuraho has its own distinctive
features. The Kandariya Mahadev temple
in the western cluster stands out as the largest and loftiest. Dedicated to Shiva of the Hindu Trinity, the
temple’s principal tower rises to a height of more than 100 feet. It is said to resemble Kailash, the celestial
abode of Shiva. It displays sculptures
of gods, goddesses, celestial nymphs, sensuous acts and animals on its walls,
pillars, brackets, recesses and at every conceivable place. One expert has counted 226 statues inside the
shrine and 646 outside. A number of them are as big as two-and-a-half feet to
three feet in height.
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| At the Kandariya Mahadev temple |
One other temple that is spectacular in this sector is
the Lakshmana temple, dedicated to Vishnu, another God of the Trinity. It is not clear how this shrine has come to
be known as the Lakshmana temple. It is
the earliest and the best preserved temple of the lot. Realistically chiselled elephants at the base
give the impression that they are supporting the temple. It also has fine specimens of bracket figures.
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| At Lakshmana temple with group members |
At the Vishwanath temple, the basement niches are
carved with Saptamatrikas, Ganesha and Virabhadra. Inside, the main hall and the passageway
contain some of the loveliest sculptures, including a woman with a fruit in one
hand and a parrot in the other, a mother with her child, a damsel playing the
flute and amorous couples.
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| At Vishwanath temple |
The Varaha temple is relatively small in size. But, it enshrines a colossal monolithic image
of Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu. It is nearly nine feet long and six
feet high. An astounding feature is that
all over the body of the boar 672 figurines of Hindu gods and goddesses have
been etched.
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| At Varaha temple |
Among the Jain shrines, the Parsvanath temple in the
eastern sector is the most appealing. Lavishly carved statues can be found on
its outer walls. Some figures like a lass
writing a letter, a dancer wearing an anklet, a woman extracting a thorn from
her foot and a damsel using an eye-liner are very popular.
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| A maiden using an eye-liner |
The erotic figures, seen in almost all the temples,
evoke varied reactions in the visitors. While some feel quietly embarrassed, a
few turn away with suppressed giggles. What has really perplexed researchers of
Khajuraho’s erotica is its unabashed boldness, unparalleled variety and
startling size. Interestingly, only ten
per cent of the total sculptures fall under this category. A British author has described the amorous
sculptures as representing “the apogee of the erotic art in India.” Why are the sensuous sculptures present in a
place of worship, where a person goes to acquire purity of thought and peace of
mind? It is explained that ancient treatises on temple architecture do permit them
for purposes of “ornamentation, prosperity and protection from evil spirits.” There
is also a view that the Chandela kings followed the Tantric cult, which encouraged
gratification through sensuous pleasures for attaining liberation from earthly
bonds and ultimate eternal bliss. There
are some other theories but they lack conviction.
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| Sculptures on the wall of a temple |
These temples also serve as a spectacular backdrop for
an annual week-long dance festival organized by the Madhya Pradesh Kala
Parishad towards the end of February, when the harsh winter gives way to the
warm spring. The fete has been inspired
by the legendary dances of Shiva Tandava (cosmic dance) and Krishna’s Raasleela
(dance with companions). It is held in an
open air auditorium within the temple complex in the evenings as the shrines
glow in colourful lights. It is a great
platform for classical dancers from all over India to showcase their talents
and present innovations.
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| The annual dance festival in an open-air auditorium |
We watched the dance programme on the evening of February
26. In fact, it was a highlight of our trip.
Our tour organizer had thoughtfully incorporated it into our itinerary. An Art Mart, where handicrafts made by people in
and around the state are exhibited and sold in colourful tents, is a popular
adjunct. Marble icons, metal-ware, textiles and wooden artefacts are a big draw.
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| At the Art Mart |
My current visit to Khajuraho is one of rediscovery.
It is heartening to note that the UNESCO-recognized world heritage monuments
are being maintained with care and attention. One must see them at least once
in one’s lifetime.
(The series will continue)
