A MARVEL IN MARBLE

THE JAIN TEMPLE AT RANAKPUR

(By Subbaram Danda)

We stood stunned, looking at the magnificent façade of the Jain temple at Ranakpur.  It was a spectacle.  The marble edifice shimmered gorgeously in the mid-day sun.  The long flight of steps leading to its main entrance, the porches in three tiers, the rows of towers and the central dome at the top provided a delectable treat to the eyes.  We had read a lot about this abode of worship but what we actually saw surpassed all those accounts.  We were gazing at an exquisite sanctuary of spiritual art.

The front view of the temple

We – my wife and I – were visiting the Jain temple on our way from Jodhpur to Udaipur in the course of our Rajasthan vacation in March 2015.  It was an important item on our itinerary.  Ranakpur is located at about 165 kilometres south of Jodhpur and about 90 kilometres north of Udaipur. 

The temple seen from another angle

A pious Jain businessman constructed the temple in the 15^th century following a vision he had.  In this effort he received the patronage of the liberal king of Mewar, Rana Kumbha.  It came up in a valley on the western side of the Aravalli range of mountains.  Renovated from time to time, it stands on a basement of 48,000 sq.ft.

The temple is dedicated to Rishabhadev, the first of the 24 Jain Tirthankaras.   A Tirthankara is a “liberated being”, who has severed all earthly bonds, crossed the stream of rebirths and attained the status of the omniscient.  He guides others on the path of renunciation and emancipation.  Rishabhadev, being the first, is also known as Adhinath (the first Lord).  The temple is one of the five major pilgrim centres of the Jains.

The massive temple has four separate entrances, one in each of the cardinal directions.  All of them lead visitors, through columned halls, to a central arena and finally to the sanctum.  In it there is a four-faced marble image of Lord Rishabhadev.  The sanctum is surrounded by several smaller shrines.   One more line of cells with holy images encircles these shrines.  Towers and domes rise above these shrines and cells.   

As we walked up the steps and passed through the main portal of the temple, a vista of architectural splendour unfolded before us.  We stood in a spacious high hall, where pillars, pedestals, capitals, lintels and the domed ceiling displayed intricately sculpted floral designs, animal motifs, celestial figures, dancing nymphs and geometrical patterns.  We saw many foreign visitors listening intently to guides, who waxed eloquent on the special characteristics of the temple.  They looked at every piece of artwork in awe. 

The ornate pillars, pedestals, capitals and lintels as seen from the front high hall

The intricately chiselled designs on pillar capitals and the ceiling 

The sculpted embellishments on a ceiling under a dome

Far ahead of us was the sanctum, where worship was going on for the principal idol of Rishabhadev amidst the chanting of hymns.  Many devotees thronged the assembly hall in front of it.  We offered our prayers from a distance and moved on. 

Hall after hall and corridor after corridor presented a variety of creative carvings.  In all, we were told, the temple has 29 halls, 80 domes and 1,444 pillars.  What is awe-inspiring is the fact that each pillar is unique in design and each dome’s ceiling is different. This feature offered us plenty of photo opportunities and we clicked liberally.  Only the idols of worship were not to be photographed. 

  

Each of the 1,444 marble pillars in the temple is different in structure and design

Animal motifs and geometrical patterns enliven the temple

Celestial figures and dancing nymphs on pillars

Within the temple complex we could see several open courtyards, which would allow sun rays to penetrate the temple, illuminating its interiors.   A significant effect of it is the wonderful play of light and shade on the pillars. As the rays shift through the day the pillars appear to change their colour from pale yellow to light gold. 

  

A tower as seen from a courtyard

  

Among other noteworthy features were two big bells placed near the sanctum.    Along a corridor a wall displayed an image of 23rd Tirthankar Parshwanath.  It was enclosed within an intricately carved band of flowers, mermaids, snakes and knots.  Elsewhere we came across life-sized marble elephants standing at the centre of small halls. 

The circular image of 23rd Tirthankar Parshwanath

An elephant in marble

Posing with another elephant statue amidst sculpted pillars

As we kept going, it was not hard to realize that the entire temple is a treasure trove of spiritual art.  An elderly woman from the US, who struck a conversation with us, was exuberant in her praise of the temple.  She did not mince words when she said, “I have not seen such a wonder in my life so far.  Every element here is a masterpiece.”  We could not but be in agreement with her.  What we were witnessing was poetry in stone.  

(Ends)

April 25, 2015

ON THE TRAIL OF JAMES BOND

IN ROMANTIC UDAIPUR

(By Subbaram Danda)

A view of Udaipur

As my wife and I entered Udaipur in the course of our Rajasthan tour in March 2015, driving on its crowded narrow streets, a huge board of a hotel caught my attention.  The last line on it read in bold letters, “We show James Bond film Octopussy every evening at 7 p.m.”  For a moment I was intrigued.  Why should the film be run by the hotel and that too every day?    Soon some more similar hotel boards with the same text confronted me. 

Suddenly I recalled what I had read in travel books and on the internet.  Almost the entire film Octopussy had been shot in Udaipur.  Many tourist sights of the city can be seen in the widely popular film.   And several of these attractions were there on our itinerary too.  The hotels were trying to attract foreign tourists by showing the film to them and offering to take them to those sites.  Excellent marketing strategy!

I am an ardent fan of Ian Fleming, the author of James Bond thrillers.  For the uninitiated, James Bond is the lead character in the novels -- a British spy with the authority to kill.  His code is 007.  I have read almost all Bond novels.  Naturally I also love the films produced on the basis of the novels. 

Octopussy is the 13^th Bond film starring Roger Moore in the main role.  Though the title is borrowed from Ian Fleming’s work, the film plot is vastly different.  

In the film, Bond is assigned the task of unravelling the international ramifications of the theft of invaluable relics from the Soviet Union. The trail leads him to Udaipur, where the operatives have set shop.

Octopussy is the name of a wealthy woman accomplice of an international smuggler involved in the theft.   Swedish-born bewitching American actress Maud Adams plays this role.  She resides in two palaces – Lake Palace and Jag Mandir Palace – each built on an island in Udaipur’s famous Lake Pichola.  James Bond stays in another palace -- the luxurious Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel on the banks of the lake.  

Lake Palace, now a luxury hotel

Exterior view of Jag Mandir Palace

Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel

Lake Palace, built by Maharana Jagat Singh II in 1754, has been converted into an expensive private luxury hotel. Its lush pools, lavish suites, stunning pavilions and dreamy fountains came in handy for the film maker to add glitz and glamour to the flick in abundance.

Jag Mandir Palace was put up by Maharana Karan Singh in 1620. Its neatly-tended gardens, open court yards and above all life-size statues of elephants at the entrance and elsewhere are a sight to behold.  The film exploits these to the full extent. 

An open courtyard of Jag Mandir Palace

In the courtyard of Jag Mandir Palace

A garden in Jag Mandir Palace

Elephant statues in the garden of Jag Mandir Palace

Incidentally, Jag Mandir Palace has an interesting tale to tell.  Mughal Prince Khurram, who later came to be known as Shah Jahan, had a dispute with his father and this forced him to seek refuge with the then ruler of the Kingdom of Mewar at Udaipur.  Subsequently Khurram stayed at Jag Mandir Palace.  He was reportedly overwhelmed by Udaipur palaces all around and wanted to build such edifices himself, if he had an opportunity.  This inspiration eventually led to the construction of the world famous Taj Mahal in memory of his wife Mumtaj.

Shiv Nivas Palace, completed by Maharana Fateh Singh at the beginning of the 20^th century, served as a royal guest house.  Among the world celebrities it hosted was King George V of the United Kingdom.  It was later turned into a luxury hotel.   

Our programme in Udaipur included a boat ride on the placid waters of Lake Pichola with a halt at the Jag Mandir Palace.  In the film James Bond also sails on the lake frequently.  Our ride enabled us to have a look at all the palaces from our boat and also provided an opportunity to step into Jag Mandir Palace, which is currently a resort with yoga and meditation facilities.  Weddings and other events also take place there.  

Boat ride on Lake Pichola

In the boat

Our hotel room in Udaipur was lake facing and we could comfortably see boats on the lake pass by.  Exactly opposite to our room across the lake on the other side was a ghat and an open paved area.  One evening we could see colourfully-dressed Rajasthani women come in a procession and gather there.  Several women carried images of Issar and Gangaur, manifestations of Shiva and Parvati.  Music, dance and other cultural programmes followed.  We learnt that it was a festival gathering to welcome the Spring season.  Several special boats with music bands and dancing youngsters sailed past the place on the lake. 

A view of Lake Pichola from our hotel room

Boats participating in the Spring festival

The Octopussy film too has a similar event shot at the same place, where James Bond was received.   The film incorporates many other scenes of the city in abundance – street-side shops selling a variety of wares, autorickshaws weaving through crowded lanes, women in colourful saris moving around and children playing in gay abandon.   Tennis player Vijay Amritraj plays the role of a companion of Bond in the film.

Udaipur finds a place not only in Octopussy but also in several other international and regional films.  Citizens of this city are proud of not only their heritage and culture but also the fact that it continues to attract film producers from all over the world.  

We did not stay in Hotel Lake Palace or Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel, as they were highly expensive, and so their interiors could not be caught by our camera.  However, we were able to capture in our photographs several of the sights featured in Octopussy, as if we had been on James Bond’s trail! 

April 11, 2015

OUR DAY OUT AT MEHRANGARH FORT

THE JEWEL OF JODHPUR

(By Subbaram Danda)

In front of the Citadel of the Sun

With high expectations we headed for the mighty fort of Mehrangarh in Jodhpur, driving on the narrow and bustling streets of the city.  Former US first lady Jacqueline Kennedy had described it as the eighth wonder of the world.  Noted English writer and Nobel Laureate for literature Rudyard Kipling had called it “the work of the giants” having been overwhelmed by its “colossal proportions.”  These comments had naturally aroused great curiosity in us.

The fort occupied a place of pride in our itinerary for Jodhpur, which was in the first leg of our Rajasthan tour from May 17 to 24, 2015.  The other places we -- my wife and I -- visited were Ranakpur, famous for its all-marble Jain temple, and Udaipur, well known for its romantic lakes and palaces.

As we moved on and accelerated up a hill, all of a sudden the fort shot into our view, literally stunning us.  It glowed majestically in the late morning sun.   Our first reaction was, “Wow, it is here, right in front of us. What a grand structure!”  After some more minutes of driving, we were at its entrance. 

Jodhpur, the Blue City, as seen from the ramparts of the fort

The foundation stone for the fort was laid in 1459 AD by Rao Jodha, a famous king of the former princely state of Marwar.  He belonged to the Rathore clan of Rajputs, who were believed to be descendants of Mehr – the Sun.   Rao Jodha named the fort Mehrangarh – the Citadel of the Sun.  On its completion, he shifted the capital of Marwar from the nearby town of Mandore to the fort. 

The statistics of the fort are formidable.   It stands on a rocky hill about 400 feet above the surrounding plains, overlooking the city.  In some places its walls rise to a height of 120 feet (as tall as a modern 12-storey building) and are 70 feet thick.   It has seven imposing gates.  The fort was expanded by successive rulers over 500 years.  

Besides being a mighty defensive structure, the fort served many purposes.  It was the seat of official administration.  The king lived in palaces inside with his family and close relatives.  It was the centre of royal patronage for music, dance, painting, literature, martial arts and weapon-making.  A few temples also came up in it.   Now a large part of the fort has been converted into a museum.  

Higher floors of the fort

After security checks and buying tickets for entry into the fort and for using our still and video cameras, our trek began.  We also engaged an official guide.  He took us in an elevator, a thoughtful senior citizen friendly addition of recent times, straight to the top floor.   A row of cannons on the ramparts beckoned us.  They are said to be among the rarest in India. From there we could see the city below with closely packed blue houses, from which Jodhpur acquired the name of Blue City.   

Cannons on the ramparts of the fort

Then on, our journey was through labyrinthine walkways, down steep staircases, past several palaces, through numerous galleries and across many courtyards.  It was an exhilarating exercise.  We heard our guide narrate stories of what kings of various generations did, their styles of ruling, their pastimes and their intrigues.  

A palace overlooking an open courtyard

The star attraction in the fort is undoubtedly its palaces.  They are named either on the basis of their interior décor or in terms of their function.  Important among them are Sheesh Mahal (Mansion of Mirrors), Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace), Jhanki Mahal (Peep Mansion) and Takhat Vilas (Mansion of Maharaja Takhat Singh).

They were built or extensively renovated by different kings at different times.  Every ruler left his mark on them.  Mughal influence could be seen on the architecture of the palaces, as the Marwar kings maintained good relations with those emperors, though there had been skirmishes now and then. 

     

We liked the Sheesh Mahal most for its exotic mirror work.  What was noticeable was that large pieces of glass had been affixed on the walls and the ceiling instead of a mosaic of tiny fragments.  Another feature was superimposition of brightly painted religious figures over the mirrors.  It was essentially a “private temple”. 

The Sheesh Mahal

The Phool Mahal (Palace of Flowers) is regarded by some as the grandest of all the “period rooms” in the fort.  It was a private and exclusive chamber of pleasure, where music, dance and other performances took place.  Its ceiling glistened in rich gold filigree.  The Phool Mahal was created by Maharaja Abhay Singh and the gold for it came from Ahmedabad in Gujarat as war booty after his famous victory over the rebellious Mughal governor, Sarbuland Khan.  

The Phool Mahal

The Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) built by Raja Sur Singh is the largest of all the mahals.  It was used as an exclusive Durbar Hall, a hall of private audience accessible only to those very close to the ruler.  The wooden ceiling is rich in gold leaf and mirror work.  Windows and door panels were made of coloured glass.  Pearls were not in evidence in this palace! 

The Moti Mahal

The Jhanki Mahal (Peep Mansion) originally served as a place from where royal ladies could peep into the courtyard below and watch official proceedings there.  Today it houses a collection of royal cradles.  They shine in gold leaf and mirror work.   Figures of fairies, elephants and birds were lavishly incorporated in their making.   

The Jhanki Mahal

The Takhat Vilas was built and lived in by Maharaja Takhat Singh, Jodhpur’s last ruler to reside in the fort.  It was a blend of traditional and British styles.  The floor is painted like a carpet.  A cloth fan (punkah) hanging from the ceiling and drawn by servants with ropes provided breeze to the occupants. The glass spheres on the ceiling were of British origin. 

The Takhat Vilas

A major attraction in the fort is an all-marble coronation seat displayed in a court yard.  It looks simple but elegant.   Every ruler since Rao Jodha had his coronation here.  No visitor fails to take a photo of it. 

The coronation seat in marble

We were astounded by the wide variety of ancient memorabilia housed in numerous galleries – arms, palanquins, howdas (seats for use on elephants), paintings, musical instruments, costumes and furniture.   Each had its own specialty.

Of great interest was the armory section, which has the personal swords of many kings.  The sword-hilts embellished in jade, silver, ivory and rhino horn attracted everyone’s attention.  There were shields studded with rubies, emeralds and pearls.  A show case contained the sword of Mughal emperor Akbar the Great (the lower one in the picture).  It is not clear how it came into the possession of the fort museum.  

The sword of Mughal Emperor Akbar (the lower one) 

An ornate, gilded and domed palanquin called Mahadol , placed in the centre of a hall, was  another item over which our guide waxed  eloquent.  It was acquired by Maharaja Abhay Singh after a successful battle with Gujarat.  It needed a team of 12 men to carry it.  

A domed palanquin

On show were objects that had been imaginatively created.   There was a bronze cannon sculpted like a mythical animal with the face of an alligator and the body of a wild boar. What purpose it served was anybody’s guess.  

A cannon with the face of an alligator

The paintings section provided a rare insight into the lifestyles of the rulers.  Undeniably they patronized this fine art very well.  One painting depicted Maharaja Man Singh playing polo – with royal women!  It was amazing to learn that in those days womenfolk took an active part in sports and that too in exotic games like polo.  

A painting of a Marwar king playing polo with royal women

A temple for Chamunda Devi, the family deity of Marwar kings, could be seen on the far end of the fort.  It remains a very popular Hindu shrine.  A large number of devotees visit it even now especially during the festival time of Navaratri.

The fort has a heart-rending exhibit.  It makes every visitor go through a moment of poignancy.  On a stone wall near the main gate, one could see carved on it many palm prints of royal ladies, who had thrown themselves into the burning pyre of their deceased husbands -- a practice called Sati.  Before the gruesome act, in a ritual, the ladies had to leave prints of their right palm on the wall, which were later etched on it permanently.   

Palm prints of royal ladies before they committed 'Sati'

Undoubtedly the Mehrangarh fort is a treasure trove for history buffs, archaeology enthusiasts and travel lovers.  The memory of our visit to the fort will certainly linger long in our minds.  

April 04, 2015