MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 15 : THE TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT, EGYPT

THE TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT : HEIGHT OF AMBITION

(By Subbaram Danda)

It is a 3,500 year-old temple with distinctively different features.  It was constructed by Hatshepsut, an overambitious but highly celebrated lady pharaoh of ancient Egypt.  As was the practice, she dedicated the temple primarily to herself but ensured that it was unique in size, design and execution.  During her lifetime it was planned to showcase her royal achievements and after her death it was intended to encourage people to worship her along with a few other Egyptian gods of the time.

Situated on the west bank of the Nile near the Valley of the Kings, the temple is a three-storeyed horizontally-oriented structure rising to a height of about 100 feet buttressed by overhanging mountain cliffs at the rear.   The façade of each level is marked by long rows of huge square columns.  In front of each floor, there is vast open space.  It is regarded as “one of the incomparable monuments of ancient Egypt.”

Frontage of Temple of Hatshepsut

As visitors step out of their vehicles in the parking lot and head for the monument, they find themselves flanked by shops selling mementoes, T-shirts, muslin, papyrus wall hangings and a host of others.  Hawkers display their wares on their outstretched arms and chase the tourists trying to speak in their language.  Fortunately, infliction by the shops and the vendors would be over in a few minutes.   A well-laid out broad road with gleaming sand on both the sides leads the people to the sprawling edifice after a solid 10-minute walk in bright sun.  For the weary, a shuttle service of a chain of golden yellow midget cars is available from the parking point to the monument.

Stately statues

Straight ahead the visitors are greeted by the three bewitching colonnaded storeys of the monument stretching to full length from left to right.   At the centre there is an easy-to-move wide ramp leading to the middle tier from the ground.  Further ahead lies another ramp to the top floor.  



Statue of
Hatshepsut

Looking up, the visitors can see several huge smiling statues of the grand queen standing majestically in the ceremonial style of a pharaoh -- arms crossed over her chest, a false beard hanging from her chin, a double crown on her head denoting her sway over upper and lower Egypt and the figure of a spitting cobra adorning her forehead proclaiming her sovereignty and divinity.   At various points in the temple there appear statues of her in several postures -- standing, sitting and kneeling -- in different conditions of preservation.

It was under interesting circumstances that Hatshepsut became a pharaoh.    She was the daughter of King Tutmose I and royal queen Ahmose born supposedly through divine intervention.   When the king died, he did not have any royal prince to succeed him.  It was a time when tradition did not allow women to rule the country and even the title of pharaoh was a man’s exclusive prerogative.  Consequently, a son born to another wife of the king acquired the crown and came to be known as Tutmose II.  Hatshepsut married this man, her own step brother.  This sounds outrageous today, but in those days it was a well-established norm adopted to sustain royal lineage.  Strangely, the couple had no male issues but only a daughter.  The king did not live long creating a succession problem once again.  However, a son born to a concubine became the heir to the throne, Tutmose III.  As he was very young, Hatshepsut functioned as the new pharaoh’s regent.   But, she was not happy in that role.   Just after a few years she boldly threw all conventions to winds and proclaimed herself Egypt’s ruling “king and pharaoh.”

Smart strategy

Hatshepsut’s rule was marked by clever moves and strategies.  To provide a stamp of legitimacy to her ascendancy she launched a campaign asserting her divine descent and claiming heavenly consent for her new status.  She cited King of Gods Amun, whom she regarded as her real father, as declaring, “My sweet daughter…..thou art the king.”   She dressed like a male ruler sporting the time-honoured Egyptian imperial regalia.  These steps were supplemented by many deeds aimed at promoting the welfare of her subjects.  And the people came to accept her as their saviour. 

Hatshepsut, meaning “Foremost of Noble Ladies,” remained in power for 22 years.   During her regime the country enjoyed peace and prosperity.  Its economy and society flourished.  She established excellent trading relations with neighbouring countries and built magnificent temples all over to propitiate gods.   At the same time, she promoted herself in innumerable ways.  She commissioned hundreds of statues of herself and left accounts of her lineage, titles, and history everywhere.

The temple of Hatshepsut reflects and echoes these exploits and expeditions.  Relief sculptures tell the tale of her “divine birth.”    The “will of the gods” to leave the reins of power in her hands are graphically illustrated.  Pictorials and texts on the walls speak of a voyage to the “Land of the Punt,” an exotic country of those days on the Red Sea coast.  The temple has several shrines, including those for Amun, Goddess of Love Hathor and God of Death Anubis.   

Operation obliteration

Hatshepsut died when she was only about 50 years.  On her demise, Tutmose III ascended the throne and unleashed forces of destruction to wipe out whatever the lady pharaoh had done, in revenge for her usurpation of his royal power.  Her statues were uprooted or damaged.  Paintings and reliefs on the walls were defaced.   A long avenue flanked by sphinx statues each with the head of the queen leading to the temple -- a magnificent sight -- was obliterated. 

For all the pompous life Hatshepsut had led, it was a quirk of fate that her mummified body lay almost discarded without even a coffin in a tomb in the Valley of the Kings, evading the unstinted efforts of experts for years to discover it.   Recently, a team of Egyptologists found that the mummy had an empty socket in its jaw.  In another tomb, there was a box, which had the name of Hatshepsut inscribed on it, carrying a single molar tooth along with other body parts that came loose at the time of mummification.  The tooth fitted exactly into the socket, leading to the identification of Hatshepsut’s body. 

Hatshepsut’s temple, also known as her funerary temple in view of rituals to be performed in it after her death when she would supposedly attain full divinity, has not lost its splendour despite vandalism, plunder and ravages of time.   It remains an “incredible expression” of the reign of a highly ambitious lady pharaoh in Egyptian history.

October 29, 2011 (1,110 words)

                                                                    ***

  

  



HUMOUR UNLEASHED -- 17

HUMOUR UNLEASHED -- 17

(Compiled by Subbaram Danda)

 Laughter causes  changes  in brain chemistry

through  production of  feel-good substances

called endorphins. This elevates one's mood.

Girls, it’s your choice

A leading Indian matrimonial bureau organized a novel programme for girls of marriageable age -- “Choose your life partner yourself.”  It took on rent a place with several large rooms, in which it displayed poster-size photographs of boys with their background information grouped on the basis of their personal attributes. The event was well publicized in newspapers and television channels.   Girls were invited to come and make their own selection.  If a girl liked a boy, she could call for him, have a discussion and proceed further. 

A group of girls went there on the first day.   They saw a sign on the first room: “Handsome but not affluent.”  The girls had reservations about boys of this category.  “What is the use of marrying a boy, who does not have sufficient money to spend even if he is handsome?  We cannot enjoy life,” one girl commented.  

They moved to the second room, on which it was written:  “Affluent but not educated.”  They felt that these boys would be rude and crude and are not worth going in for.

The third room announced: “Educated but not employed.”  The girls rejected these boys outright.

The sign on the next room said: “Employed but not socially-oriented.”  The girls had their own doubts about these boys.

“Socially-oriented but not intelligent” was the board on the door of the fifth room.  The girls were not convinced.

When the girls saw the legend on the next room, they were thrilled.  It flashed: “Handsome, affluent, educated, employed, socially-oriented and intelligent.”  They rushed in but found not even a single poster.  On an inner room door they saw a bold sign, which said:  “You are too choosy.  You can place an order here mentioning your requirements – Mars Robotics Limited.   Thanks for coming.”

For a fee!

The judge: “It is a daredevil highway robbery executed with super precision.  A celebrity is in hospital with nervous breakdown.  It is amazing.   How can it be done?!”

The accused: “My Lord, it is not very difficult.  I learnt it in a foreign country.  But I can teach you here itself.  I am sure you can pick it up easily.  But you have to pay me a fee of Rs.1 lakh.”

The judge furiously: “What are you talking?”

The accused: “No bargaining, my boss.  You can get it back in one hold-up!”

Ambition unfulfilled

A young villager was excited, when he heard that a long-awaited film starring his most favourite hero was going to be released the next Friday.  He made arrangements with a friend in the neighbouring town to be at the first show on the first day.  He watched the film and was thrilled to find that his hero donned a daringly different role.

He saw the film again the next day, buying the ticket in the black.  On the following day too he came to the cinema.  On the next three days as well he was there. 

The usher noticed the villager and wondered why he was watching the same film repeatedly, paying a high price for the ticket.   He stopped him and enquired.

The villager: “In the last scene my hero sits on a bench in a park waiting for his lover to come.  I read in newspapers that it is this girl that he is going to marry in real life.  I think this is the most fantastic way of introducing his bride to his fans.”

“So you saw her and want to see her again and again?!”

The villager: “No, in the film, in front of the hero runs a railway line.  When his lover enters the scene, a train thunders past obscuring her face.  After it is gone, there is a long shot, in which the hero leaves the park with his right hand thrown on her back and both disappear in darkness.   I was disappointed.”

“That’s it.   Why do you want to see the same shot again and again?” the usher asked.

“Don’t think I am a dunce.  I know in India trains do not always come on time.  One day, this train would come late and I would be able to see the face of my hero’s fiancee in close-up.  It is my ambition.”

October 22, 2011 (740 words)

                                                                   ***

   



MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 14 : THE LEANING TOWER OF PISA, ITALY

THE LEANING TOWER OF PISA : A MIRACLE TILT

(By Subbaram Danda)

The Leaning Tower of Pisa would not have become a world renowned wonder but for an unexpected development as construction on it began about 840 years ago.   In fact, it was planned to be a vertically erect eight-storey bell-tower.  But when it reached the third level, it began to sink and tilt on account of improper foundation in soft soil.  Periodical stoppage of work to allow the soil to get stabilized naturally and different measures to set it right all proved futile.    When it was completed, it was really a Leaning Tower of Pisa.   Ironically, the unintended tilt brought it name and fame – and enormous revenue too from tourism!

Pisa is a city in the Tuscany region of Central Italy.   In the 12^th century, Pisa was very affluent and its people desired to showcase to the world the city’s prominence.  Mobilizing funds, they decided to build a Cathedral Square called Piazza dei Duomo.  The plan talked of a cathedral, a baptistery (where baptism, formal ceremonious initiation into Christian faith, takes place), a bell tower and a cemetery. 

Today, visitors walk past a long row of cluttered curio shops warding off pestering vendors to reach an arch of welcome leading to the Piazza dei Duomo.   As they enter it, the four buildings in dazzling white greet them standing majestically on a vast carpet of emerald green lawns.  Of course, the cynosure of all eyes is the Leaning Tower of Pisa located at the far end.   They make a beeline to it.

Crowning glory

Regarded as the crowning glory of the Piazza, the tower was designed as a cylindrical one rising to a height of 185 feet.  Constructed in white marble, it has eight storeys, including the top floor of the bell chamber, which houses seven big bells. The exterior of the building presents arches all through the eight levels supported by intricately decorated capitals atop more than 200 columns.   The emotional impact of this leaning architectural wonder on the viewers is stupendous.

Inside, there is a spiral staircase with 293 steps.  As the visitors move up and up trudging in a near claustrophobic flight of steps, a strange feeling overtakes them created by the tilting walls and the slanting steps.  For the weak and the weary, there are outlets at frequent intervals to move out of the steps area and relax for a while.  At the end, when the highest floor is reached, the exercise proves satisfying.  Walking along the circular corridor taking in a 360 degree panoramic view of the city is exhilarating.   It is a unique experience of its kind – to be on top of the tilted roof of the world! 

One can go near the bells and take a close look.   The seven bells have been designed to produce the seven musical notes.  They are all large and weighty.  Each one has its own name.   The largest, called l’Assunta, has a bas-relief representing “The Ascent of the Virgin Mary.”  It weighs three-and-a-half tons.  For quite a time the bells were rung by swinging them with the help of long ropes.  But in 1930s the practice was stopped in a bid to maintain the stability of the tower.  Instead, clappers within the bells were actuated by electromagnets.  This system continues to this day.

Galileo’s experiments

The tower is credited with some major historical events. Galileo Galilei, Father of Modern Physics, conducted experiments on gravity from the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.  In the late sixteenth century, the Italian physicist and astronomer climbed to the top floor and dropped two spheres of distinctly different weight.  They fell to the ground at the same time, watched by a number of people.  He thereby demonstrated that the duration of their descent was not dependent on their mass, thus refuting the view of Aristotle and creating a new chapter in Physics.

During the World War II Nazis of Germany used the tower as an observation post.  But the allied forces decided not to shoot it down and it was saved from destruction.

Tourists swarm the Piazza dei Duomo, thousands every day reaching a peak in summer months.   With a façade of grey and white marble columns and arches, the differently domed cathedral of Duomo Santa Maria is a sure attraction.  The pulpit, sculptures and paintings inside are admirable things of lasting beauty.  The Baptistery, which also has a dome portraying many intricate decorations, offers an “audio-treat” to the visitors.  A guard makes a few high-pitched sounds at a place inside and in a moment they reverberate melodiously – the effect of echoes going round and round the dome and coming back.   The cemetery is a gracefully elongated cloister enclosing a burial ground with earth reportedly brought from Golgotha, the hill where Jesus was crucified.  It also has a large collection of ancient Roman stone coffins and splendid medieval frescoes. 

Stability at long last

From the beginning, the tilting tower has been a source of constant worry for engineers, architects and other specialists.  Their efforts to prevent it from sinking and tilting, though slow and imperceptible at times, have produced only limited results.  When its construction was completed in 1370 AD, its inclination measured 1.6 degrees from the vertical.  Steps to hold it continued.

A few times in its long history the tower came painfully close to toppling.  In recent times, major restoration work took place between 1990 and 2001.  At long last after fresh measures it was announced in May 2008 that the Pisa tower has for the first time stopped leaning further and “the tower should remain stable for at least another 200 years.”  It now leans at 3.99 degrees.  Its top stands inclined by about 13 feet.

In 1987, the Cathedral Square was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.  About a million people visit it every year.  In its eight centuries of history the Leaning Tower of Pisa remained perilously tilted, throwing up anxious moments at times, but never tumbled -- a miracle in itself.  The Piazza dei Duomo has aptly come to be known as the Piazza dei Miracoli, the Square of Miracles!

October 15, 2011 (1050 words)

                                                                        ***

      

  



HUMOUR UNLEASHED -- 16

HUMOUR UNLEASHED -- 16

(Compiled by Subbaram Danda)

Watching  a  funny  flick  that  produces  giggles

is very good for the heart,a study has found.

At the same time, watching a horror film

causes mental stress  resulting in the

narrowing of blood vessels, which

is  not  good  for  the heart.

The “talking” parrot

A college-going lad asked his parents to get him a pet.  “Almost all my friends have a pet, either a dog or a cat.  One has even a little turtle.  I should have one,” he insisted.  His father rejected the idea forthwith, as he hated animals.  However, his mother appeared to appreciate his desire but kept quiet.

During the Christmas vacation, when the youngster went on an excursion with his friends, his mother broached the subject with her husband.  “See, our Kris is a very diligent boy, studying well.  He does not have any bad habits.  All his activities are transparent.  If we get him a pet, possibly a parrot, he will feel happy and it would also help him cut his addiction to television.”  Reluctantly his father agreed.

Next day Kris mother went to a pet market.  There parrots were priced in the range of Rs.500 to Rs.600.  Only one bird had a quote of Rs.300.  She asked the shop-keeper, pointing to the low-priced one, “Why this costs only Rs.300?  It will speak all right, no?”

The shop-keeper: “Madam, all parrots are fine.  They talk very well.  The low-priced one has some history.  It was previously in a bar and knows all the people by name who used to frequent it.  That’s all.”

“How does it matter to me?” she thought, purchased the parrot and took it home.  The bird greeted everyone coming home and the woman was very happy.  Even her husband started liking the new entrant in the house.

When Kris returned from his vacation, his mother told him at the entrance, “I have a surprise for you.  Come on in,” and took him to the room where the parrot had been kept in a beautiful cage. 

As soon as they entered, they heard a sweet shrill voice, “Hi Kris!  How are you?  Where is your girl friend?   I left the bar a fortnight ago.”

Kris mother swooned.

The wave

A young man, known for his cheerful attitude and ever-smiling looks, became depressed almost all of a sudden.  A close friend met him at a beach and was surprised to see him distraught and in a pensive mood. 

He asked him: “I have never seen you sitting alone and brooding over things like this.  What is the matter?”

The young man: “I don’t like the wave of social activist Anna Hazare sweeping the country.  I not only despise it but hate it.”

The friend: “What?  You are the only person I have come across speaking against it.  It has created a new awakening among our people.  I personally feel that it is a welcome development.”

The young man:  “But, it has played havoc with my marriage proposal.”

The friend: “Come on, be frank.  What has happened?”

The young man: “My marriage was about to be finalized.   But silently the bride’s party appears to have shelved the proposal.” 

The friend: “Why?  Be more specific.”

The young man: “The broker had told them that I work in a crucial department of the government and though my salary is not high, I have ‘other’ substantial income.”  

Proud grandpa!

Grand-daughter:  Grandpa, last week-end I and my parents went to the new theme park.  It has several rides, games, kiosks and a roller-coaster.   We loved it.

Grandpa:  It is nothing, I have seen better things.

Grand-daughter after a week:  Grandpa, a boy in my class does many wonderful things.  He is first in studies and also in swimming, running, jumping and singing.  He also knows magic.

Grandpa:  It is nothing, I have done better things.

Grand-daughter after another week:  Grandpa, yesterday the Governor came to our school, made a presentation and answered our questions very ably and humorously.  We were so impressed that we gave him a standing ovation.

Grandpa:  It is nothing, I have spoken better.

Grand-daughter after yet another week:  Grandpa, I have become curious to know what all you have seen, done and spoken in the past.  Tell me all.

Grandpa:  My dear child, I have forgotten everything.

Grand-daughter:  I am very proud of you, Grandpa!   

October 8, 2011 (740 words)

                                                            ***



MARVELS OF THE WORLD -- 13 : THE COLOSSEUM, ITALY

THE COLOSSEUM : MIGHTY BUT MACABRE

(By Subbaram Danda)

The colosseum is a huge oval-shaped amphitheatre constructed by Roman emperors in the first century AD in the heart of present-day Rome, Italy.   It was intended to conduct gladiator contests, chariot races, animal fights, man-animal clashes and a host of other events that showcased the valour of the Romans and the might of their emperors.  “An iconic symbol of imperial Rome,” it is famous and also infamous at the same time.  While it reflects the intense love of the rulers for creating architectural masterpieces, it does not conceal their uninhibited lust for indulging in macabre pastimes and patronizing cruel games.

The amphitheatre was called colosseum to outwit the popularity of a nearby colossal bronze statue of Nero, an earlier emperor, whose controversial behaviour during a blaze, gave rise to the legendary slogan “Nero was fiddling, when Rome was burning.”  The statue disappeared sometime in the Middle Ages and has since been largely forgotten.  Actually, at first, the colosseum was known as the Flavian amphitheatre after the dynastic name of the Roman emperors.

The Roman colosseum today -- shorn of its old glory

(Photo courtesy: opengalleries.org)

Construction of the colosseum, measuring 1,730 feet around, began in 72 AD during the reign of emperor Vespasian and was completed after his death in 80 AD by his son and successor Titus.  It was expanded subsequently.  It is the largest-ever amphitheatre built by the Romans.

Marble cladding and statues

At that time, it was a grand elliptical four-storeyed open-air structure with tiers of seats for spectators rising from a central arena, where fights and games were held.  Sparkling marble cladding over exterior walls and numerous larger than life-size statues of Roman heroes under niche-like open arches all around in the second and third floors gave the imposing building a profound appearance.  It could accommodate 55,000 people, who could enter through as many as 80 entrances.  The top floor was meant for lower classes and women. The ground floor was reserved for senators, priests and other celebrities, and the front elevated row was for the emperor and his entourage.  

The central arena for contests, 287 feet long and 180 feet wide, was in fact a wooden floor covered with a thick layer of sand.  Underneath, there was subterranean space with a network of rooms, enclosures, tunnels, ramps and mechanical devices for gladiators and animals waiting to enter the arena.  

Near ruinous state

But the scene today is starkly different.   As enthusiastic visitors get off their vehicles and take a look at the monument straight ahead of them, it fails to stun them.  It stands in a near ruinous state, a large portion of the top two storeys having gone.  The marble covering over the exterior has totally disappeared.  Only pockmark-like holes on the walls meant for nails and clamps, which once held the overlaid marble slabs, remain.   The statues under the arches have all vanished.  The story is not different inside.  The passages, stairways and tiered rows of seats appear in various stages of dilapidation.  The wooden floor of the arena is missing and the decayed subterranean structures stand exposed.  Earthquakes, fires, robbers and misuse of the premises have all led to this state of affairs.  It is said that stones and marble slabs plundered from here were used in building mansions and cathedrals in later days. 

Interior of the colosseum -- in various stages of delapidation

(Photo courtesy: opengalleries.org) 

However, discernible eyes can visualize its serene grandeur.  Trying to recreate the bygone era for visitors today, a few well-built men sporting the costumes of famous gladiators move around in front of the colosseum.  Their red and brown tunic with golden braids, a plume-bedecked headgear, wrist bands, strappy sandals and a gleaming sword attract everybody’s attention.  For a few Euros they put up a short mock show and one can also pose for a photograph with them. 

Guides narrate the great stories of the past with a touch of élan mingled with a tinge of sorrow. The “festivities” at the colosseum would go on for a full day and sometimes for several days at a stretch, totally “enjoyed” by the citizens.  There would be comic skits, classical dramas and re-enactment of famous battles, besides human duels and fights with tigers, lions, elephants, exotic breeds and even giraffes.  

Gladiator fights

The event most sought after is the gladiator contests.   The combatants are skilled fighters, having been earlier picked from volunteers, prisoners of war, condemned criminals and slaves and rigorously trained.  Theirs would be mostly “fight to finish” clashes with each other or with beasts.  They enter the arena as trumpets blare, drums beat and the excited onlookers applaud.  They march in a procession led by trainers, musicians, dancers and a retinue of others.  Walking past the emperor they shout, “We, who are about to die, salute you.” 

As the swords and shields of the gladiators clash in loud clangs and their screams pierce the air at every grisly strike, cheers from the game-hungry spectators rise to a crescendo.  When one falls, gasping for the last breath, a thunder of ovation bursts from them.  In animal-to-animal and man-to-beast fights, the onlookers look for thrills from fierce attacks and relish the cries of agony from the wounded and the dying. 

It is no exaggeration that in these battles, a large number of men and animals would be savagely killed.   Even as “Ferrymen of the Underworld” carry the dead away, readily-kept sand would be poured over the blood-spilled ground, and another set of fighters would get ready for the next clash.  There were occasions when the amphitheatre was the scene of gruesome public executions as well “as inspired by mythology – eaten by beasts or burned to death.”  At the end, the winners would receive golden palm leaves and lots of money.   If a captive fighter turns victorious, he could implore before the emperor to be set free.   A triumphant gladiator would be held in great esteem. 

100-day ostentatious ceremony

It is said that when the colosseum was inaugurated, emperor Titus ensured that it was a “highly ostentatious opening ceremony” that went on for as many as 100 days!  During this grandiose celebration, thousands of animals, more than 5,000 according to one historian, were killed.  And there is no clear count of the men lost.

After the sixth century, with the decline of the Roman empire, colosseum fell into disuse and it became the venue for hospitals, hermitages and even a cemetery.   Today it is a highly popular site for painters and tourists.  No doubt, it is a mighty monument though with a macabre history.

October 1, 2011 (1,100 words)

                                                                        ***